I know they have dedicated face shields you can buy for grinding etc. but I prefer to use an old welding helmet and just put the clear lens in there, I use mine for grinding and also polishing.
Helpful hints
- Thread starter Bonnewagon
- Start date
Ever button up a Pontiac V-8 motor and realize that you forgot to install the oil pump drive shaft while the bottom was open? Yeah, me too. So just grind off the little t*ts on the sides of the shaft and you can drop it in from above through the distributor hole. Not sure if other makes have those too.
If you park your car for the winter or for long periods run the car till it's almost empty and fill it up with non ethanol gas. Run the engine for a while to burn off all the ethanol gas in the system and then top it off right up to the neck, That will prevent moisture in the tank and the moisture that ethanol attracts and the junk that is in ethanol gas to leave deposits.
If you have ever done a Buick V-8 rear crankshaft seal, you know that 2 steel pins are included to install the rectangular side seals. Those 2 pins just happen to be the PERFECT tool to drive in the Quadra-jet/Dual-jet accellerator pump arm roll pin. A brad or finishing nail also works, but the Buick pins have a tapered end, with a flat face that just works awesomely.
Hafrod added this neat trick. Nice one!
HAFROD
G-Body Guru PRINTED CIRCUIT FIX I drilled two holes through the circuit and into the plastic housing on each side of the break. I stripped off some wire and wrapped it around two very small screws and tightened them. It fixed mine. I got 3 ralley clusters here and all had at least one break in a circuit. There may be other ways but this was fast and easy.
HAFROD
G-Body Guru PRINTED CIRCUIT FIX I drilled two holes through the circuit and into the plastic housing on each side of the break. I stripped off some wire and wrapped it around two very small screws and tightened them. It fixed mine. I got 3 ralley clusters here and all had at least one break in a circuit. There may be other ways but this was fast and easy.
If you blow a rear wheel cylinder and your shoes are covered in brake fluid you can clean the shoes with rubbing alcohol if you want to reuse them. This method has been tested by the illustrious individual who started this thread.
If your axle seal is shot and you have axle grease on the shoes you can soak them in rubbing alcohol to clean them
If your axle seal is shot and you have axle grease on the shoes you can soak them in rubbing alcohol to clean them
Thank's Steve, although I should have known that. I think I'm getting a case of CRS- (Can't Remember sh*t). Anyway on that same car my daughter was stranded at work with the brake pedal on the floor. I went there and saw the driver side rear wheel was hemorrhaging brake fluid. I filled the reservoir with brake fluid and pumped the pedal several times to blow the air out of the lines. When I got some pedal I went down to the bad wheel and crimped the brake line shut at several points with a pair of big wire cutters, being careful not to cut the line open. That stopped the leak and I was able to drive the car home using a combination of the foot brakes and hand brake. That saved an expensive tow bill. I replaced both rear wheel cylinders and the brake line and flushed the system. The brake pads I cleaned with alcohol are working fine and all is well now.
If you want to do a valve lash while the engine is running you can't cut a slot in some old spare valve covers to avoid the splash all over the engine. I think it's easier than the clips.
Too really clean your windshield use 0000 steel wool on it. Don't wash the windshield before you use the steel wool and do not put anything on the steel wool. You'll remove anything on the windshield and it'll feel like you polished after you give a good rubbing on the windshield. You can use it on all your windows if you want to.
There was a rash of tire valve stem failures traced to a Chinese supplier several years ago. I got stung by this and I got really mad at having to get the leaky stems changed at a shop at $$ per tire. I decided to just buy a box of stems and replace them myself but how to get at the inside of the tire? Easy. I placed the original equipment bumper jack on the tire right at the stem and jacked the bumper up, thus pressing the tire bead off the rim just enough to swap out the stem. An inexpensive stem tool pulls the stem into the hole until it seats. Then I bounce the tire around until the bead re-seats while pumping it up with compressed air. A difficult tire that won't re-seat can be persuaded to by wrapping a stout rope or chain around the tire and twisting it tight with a tire iron while pumping it up. Best part is- you don't disturb the balance.
Similar threads
