Helpful hints

[Bonnewagon]

When installing a manual transmission while the motor is in the car, it is hard to get the input shaft lined up straight into the pilot bushing while simultaneously engaging the clutch disc splines, and the throw out bearing over the input shaft bearing collar, not to mention all the mounting bolts, all while holding up an awkwardly shaped heavy-assed hunk of metal. Here is what I do- first I take an old output shaft yoke, insert it into the tail housing, and put the transmission in high gear which locks the input and output shafts as one. Now when you need to get the input shaft to align with the clutch disc, all you need to do is turn the yoke, and the input shaft will turn one-for-one. No need to twist the entire heavy transmission around. Then, I take two long 1/2" bolts with their heads cut off and screw them into the two bottom transmission mounting holes of the bell housing. Now you have two pilot shafts in place to rest the transmission on and guide it right into where it needs to be. And if you are like me, laying on the ground or garage floor with the car on blocks, don't risk breaking a rib. Place a 1'x2' piece of plywood on your chest so if the transmission slips, you are protected. Hell, just resting the transmission on the wood rather than yourself is worth the price of admission. Be safe!

 

[Longroof79]

If you open the door panels and find that the water shields are torn up or missing altogether, just use some roofing tar paper or heavy plastic sheeting to replace them. The purpose of the water shields is to direct any water that makes it past the window fuzzies safely past the door internals and down to the bottom so it can drain out the aforementioned drain holes. Just cut holes for any wiring or protrusions like door handles and tape the shields to the door frame, then reinstall the panels.

Mark,
I ended up using the heavy plastic method for the vapor barrier on my doors. It didn't make sense to put the ratty paper back on the doors.

 

[Bonnewagon]

Me too jack. No one makes them and the paper tears just by looking at it. My '95 LeSabre used heavy plastic and that convinced me to do so too.

 

[pontiacgp]

clear plastic for me too...

 

[Bonnewagon]

A fresh, or worked-on, or long neglected motor should never be turned over without priming the oil system first. That means not using the starter motor, but rather a priming tool that engages the oil pump drive shaft through the distributor opening. Which brings me to the hint- use an old distributor and make your own. I usually use points type, just because they are useless for anything else. I strip everything off, then cut away the cap housing base, just down to the top bearing. I cut the shaft just below the weights pad and either slot it for a speed wrench w/screwdriver fitting or just leave it alone and grab the end with a 1/2" drill. I've even seen the end ground square for a socket to fit on and a speed wrench used. The electric drill makes the job easiest and you can pump a lot of oil through the motor in a short time. But out in the field, with no electricity, the other manual methods work. A mechanical oil pressure gauge screwed into an oil pressure sender tapping like the one by the oil filter will let you know if all is well. Continue pumping until you see oil exit all the pushrods and you should be good to go.

 

[Regalproject213]

A fresh, or worked-on, or long neglected motor should never be turned over without priming the oil system first. That means not using the starter motor, but rather a priming tool that engages the oil pump drive shaft through the distributor opening. Which brings me to the hint- use an old distributor and make your own. I usually use points type, just because they are useless for anything else. I strip everything off, then cut away the cap housing base, just down to the top bearing. I cut the shaft just below the weights pad and either slot it for a speed wrench w/screwdriver fitting or just leave it alone and grab the end with a 1/2" drill. I've even seen the end ground square for a socket to fit on and a speed wrench used. The electric drill makes the job easiest and you can pump a lot of oil through the motor in a short time. But out in the field, with no electricity, the other manual methods work. A mechanical oil pressure gauge screwed into an oil pressure sender tapping like the one by the oil filter will let you know if all is well. Continue pumping until you see oil exit all the pushrods and you should be good to go.

Nice! I triggered something for this helpful hint on my other thread.. Now If I can find a spare distributor to do what this good man has said .. Thanks Bonewagon.. I really do appreciate your knowledge, with me being a newbie. This was a great write up. I believe I understand what you meant. I'm crossing my fingers this old engine will cut me a "break"

 

[Rktpwrd]

A fresh, or worked-on, or long neglected motor should never be turned over without priming the oil system first. That means not using the starter motor, but rather a priming tool that engages the oil pump drive shaft through the distributor opening. Which brings me to the hint- use an old distributor and make your own. I usually use points type, just because they are useless for anything else. I strip everything off, then cut away the cap housing base, just down to the top bearing. I cut the shaft just below the weights pad and either slot it for a speed wrench w/screwdriver fitting or just leave it alone and grab the end with a 1/2" drill. I've even seen the end ground square for a socket to fit on and a speed wrench used. The electric drill makes the job easiest and you can pump a lot of oil through the motor in a short time. But out in the field, with no electricity, the other manual methods work. A mechanical oil pressure gauge screwed into an oil pressure sender tapping like the one by the oil filter will let you know if all is well. Continue pumping until you see oil exit all the pushrods and you should be good to go.

Just an addendum to Bonnewagon's great tip:
When priming engines with the process described above, make sure to turn the pump priming tool in the proper direction. Chevrolet motors need to have the pump spun clockwise to achieve oil pressure, while Oldsmobile motors have the distributor gear on the other side of the camshaft. The pump must be spun counterclockwise on these engines. So if you're spinning away and you don't see oil pressure, don't panic. Reverse the direction and watch for the pressure to build. If doing it with a drill, you'll also feel a "load" on the drill letting you know it's working and you're spinning it in the proper direction.

 

[autonaut]

When changing a arns bushings or any other bushings in the suspension, dont tighten the bolt/nut until the suspension is in it's natural position.

Example.
If you change the bushings in the lower a arm up front, dont tighten the bolts until the a arm is level with the ground. Tightening it with the a arm hanging loose, then twisting the new bushings to seat the arm once the spring is in again will make the bushing fail before time.

 

[autonaut]

Sometimes there's not enough room for a breaker bar and socket, so you can only use a wrench(prefferably the closed end as it is much stronger) If it does not have sufficient leverage, pick up a bigger wrench and insert the closed end of the big wrench to the open end of the wrench that needs more leverage.

A pic is worth a thousand words but i dobt have any on my phone..

 

[Bonnewagon]

Thank's Rktpwrd- I forgot all about that! See? Never too old to learn something!