Here goes nothing!
- Thread starter JCutlass 88
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If you're gonna run pressure, you better learn HP Tuners. Once you buy and do that, you flash your own.
Unless you got some deep pockets...
Unless you got some deep pockets...
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Do it the way you feel is right. I went with forged rods and pistons but kept stock crank and I took grief from some on here or maybe LS1 tech... cannot remember. Mine is only going to be naturally aspirated high compression.
Why not go stand alone with Holley or Fast. Much cleaner install and by the time you spend money on tuning you'll be about even ?
I might have taken the same approach 10 years or so ago. But after seeing the abuse that the gen 4 motors are taking........my 86 monte is getting a 200k mile gen 4 truck motor and a Chinese 7875 turbo.
That's the cool thing about the sloppy mechanics crowd.....they are, more or less, automotive mythbusters. For years, you would hear guys on internet forums parroting the same old advice: "you can't re-use factory headbolts", "you can't re-use head gaskets", "you need a built trans for any kind of real power", "you need to use ARP rod bolts in a boosted application", "you can't make big power on the stock bottom end".....etc. Then the sloppy mechanics folks come around and make 800whp on a stock bottom end with stock rod bolts, re-using head bolts and head gaskets......all through a stock 4l80e.
Don't take this the wrong way - if your goals are reasonable (less than 800HP), then the stock stuff is all you need. Expensive parts break just the same as the Gen 4 parts will if the tune stinks. BUT (notice caps), there is nothing wrong with building a sound short block - NOT A THING. Especially if you have the jing to support that plan. FWIW we practice what we preach - we have $6500 in our short block topped with a set of $300 317 truck heads. The idea being that we won't have a bottom end failure until we see 1100+ HP. We haven't hit that kind of power yet, but we keep chugging along - lol.
A couple of things to keep in mind - 1st, you need to learn how to tune in a hurry or need someone that is reliable near you. Personally, I prefer to tune myself and live and learn as I go. But I am a true believer in 'creeping up on the tune' - meaning if I think it'll take 18 degrees, then I put 14 to it and check the plugs after a couple of pulls; 2nd - don't skimp on the fuel system; 3rd - a 5.3 is forgiving due to the short stroke-it will take a ton of boost without an issue; 4th (lastly) - don't skimp on the cam - no less than a BTR Stage 3 unless you intend put 10's of thousands of mile per year on this.
Regarding the last item, we chose a milder cam because ours gets driven alot (sometimes too many) miles every year, but we decided to make up for it with cubic inches and a big turbo for a street car.
Almost forgot - HP Tuners is expensive, Megasquirt and Holley software are free. Something to consider when you look at aftermarket ECM's.
A couple of things to keep in mind - 1st, you need to learn how to tune in a hurry or need someone that is reliable near you. Personally, I prefer to tune myself and live and learn as I go. But I am a true believer in 'creeping up on the tune' - meaning if I think it'll take 18 degrees, then I put 14 to it and check the plugs after a couple of pulls; 2nd - don't skimp on the fuel system; 3rd - a 5.3 is forgiving due to the short stroke-it will take a ton of boost without an issue; 4th (lastly) - don't skimp on the cam - no less than a BTR Stage 3 unless you intend put 10's of thousands of mile per year on this.
Regarding the last item, we chose a milder cam because ours gets driven alot (sometimes too many) miles every year, but we decided to make up for it with cubic inches and a big turbo for a street car.
Almost forgot - HP Tuners is expensive, Megasquirt and Holley software are free. Something to consider when you look at aftermarket ECM's.
My goal is to reach 800 with turbo, I figured an aftermarket bottom end would get me closer to my goal. Granted the 6.0 would get me there easier. But the 5.3 is what I had
a couple of notes...
I wouldn't bother with E85 unless you're that desperate. I have an '04 Suburban and someone stole the fuel rail pressure regulator off it while at the mechanics parking lot (they disclaimed responsibility). Since I didn't have $70 for a new one, off to the junkyard I go. 5 hours later, only 2 'Burbs out of 40-50 have the correct regulator. the regular gas regulators are a lot cheaper
regarding Gen III vs Gen IV LS motors, be aware that the Active Fuel Management feature is on the IVs. A mechanic guy I know who used to work at the dealership on them mentioned that AFM lifters were always going bad, and those lifters run about $40-50 apiece...on RockAuto. He said you were better off just repacing them with standard LS lifters and then having the ECU re-programmed (I think) to disable the AFM feature.
I wouldn't bother with E85 unless you're that desperate. I have an '04 Suburban and someone stole the fuel rail pressure regulator off it while at the mechanics parking lot (they disclaimed responsibility). Since I didn't have $70 for a new one, off to the junkyard I go. 5 hours later, only 2 'Burbs out of 40-50 have the correct regulator. the regular gas regulators are a lot cheaper
regarding Gen III vs Gen IV LS motors, be aware that the Active Fuel Management feature is on the IVs. A mechanic guy I know who used to work at the dealership on them mentioned that AFM lifters were always going bad, and those lifters run about $40-50 apiece...on RockAuto. He said you were better off just repacing them with standard LS lifters and then having the ECU re-programmed (I think) to disable the AFM feature.
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