High Idle Solenoid

[565bbchevy]

Did you try getting them out with the double nut method first? They might just break loose once the powder coating gives.

 

[mikester]

yes,and if they're stainless there's an even better chance they're galled but you gotta see if it's worth trying it if the end result is broken parts etc etc..

No, theyre just cheap OEM steel. To be honest I was surprised when they wouldnt budge. They werent in that long and they went in pretty easy.

 

[mikester]

Did you try getting them out with the double nut method first? They might just break loose once the powder coating gives.

I tried double nuts first. Then vise grips. They were put in over a year after the powder coating was done. I guess I can borrow a stud remover but if it breaks in the manifold that will be a huge pain in the butt. Never had a bolt seize up like that.

 

[565bbchevy]

I tried double nuts first. Then vise grips. They were put in over a year after the powder coating was done. I guess I can borrow a stud remover but if it breaks in the manifold that will be a huge pain in the butt. Never had a bolt seize up like that.

Sorry, I thought they got powder coated in when the intake was done, since you installed them after I will still try a little heat on the intake and spray some penetrating oil in the threads once it is hot.
I have never used an anti seize to install my carb studs and never had an issue with R & R but I only use aftermarket ones that are coated black (ARP, Mr Gasket)
If you can get them out but they mess up the threads in the process you Heli Coil them for a solid repair.

 

[melloelky]

No, they're just cheap OEM steel. To be honest I was surprised when they wouldn't budge. They weren't in that long and they went in pretty easy.

if they're carbon steel you've got a better chance.google candle wax bolt removal trick.it might be worth a try in this particular situation.

 

[abbey castro]

I'm running a crate ZZ4 with Edelbrock QJet. No idle solenoid and it doesn't kill the rpms when the AC comes on. IMO there is no need for it. As far as the rubber AC hose vs aluminum I think there is no reliability issue with any one of them. I upgraded everything and it came with the partial rubber/aluminum lines like GM did it. I prefer the partial aluminum lines (OEM) vs all black hose.

 

[mikester]

I'm running a crate ZZ4 with Edelbrock QJet. No idle solenoid and it doesn't kill the rpms when the AC comes on. IMO there is no need for it. As far as the rubber AC hose vs aluminum I think there is no reliability issue with any one of them. I upgraded everything and it came with the partial rubber/aluminum lines like GM did it. I prefer the partial aluminum lines (OEM) vs all black hose.

The difference between yours and mine is I have the serpentine setup so the compressor is on the right side. Im using a Cutlass condenser and an F body line for the compressor. Ive got an aluminum line from a Cutlass but even though I took some time and polished it Im thinking a rubber line wouldnt look that bad.

 

[565bbchevy]

I have the serpentine setup so the compressor is on the right side. Im using a Cutlass condenser and an F body line for the compressor. Ive got an aluminum line from a Cutlass but even though I took some time and polished it Im thinking a rubber line wouldnt look that bad.

In that case it is probably just a personal preference, I have a V-belt set up but I moved my compressor to the passenger side and used the 307 condenser and hardline but made my AC hoses.

 

[mikester]

I saw this today on a FB Malibu group. I dont think the rubber line looks that bad.