Homemade Bracing

[Malibu795]

I'm running Nitto 555s. 245/35/17 front and 275/40/17 rear.

So far, the biggest front bar I can find is the Belltech. But my next major mod is gonna be coilovers. The front is sitting about an inch higher than the rear, since I'm running an aluminum block ls1 on stock springs.

I suggest the upper lower link frame brace from trick chassis. Huge difference on how the rear handles.

Upper And Lower Frame Braces - Trick Chassis

Trick Chassis' Upper and Lower Frame Braces are guaranteed to last. We build our frame braces with the sturdiest components in the industry.

www.trickchassis.com

I'm running 4, 275/40/17 on 17*9 5" back spacing on my wagon. Wish I made the jump to 18" substantially more tire options I have almost full UMI stuff on the front

 

[64nailhead]

Dropping the height with coil overs will require a realignment. But dropping it with drop spindles won't.

Sounds kinda stupid, but worn out front springs with a DA front shock will give you the ride height you want and the response you'll want. Most everyone seems to put new springs all around, and they always raise the ride height for several reasons, but the end result is the same - increased ride height.

I have a very decent front end setup due to a member here giving me a bunch of parts that he no longer needed (I'm very fortunate and appreciative.) A double adjustable shock will give you the same response as a coil over - I've had good luck and like the Vikings I have presently. But coil overs on all 4 corners is definitely a better option if you have the jing to give up for them. If you go with a front coil over, then weigh the car to see what spring you need on the coil overs. You will be able to find springs from 150 to 550 spring rate, and they are vastly different. I don't know much about a handling spec, but a straight line racing spring of 250-350 is plenty if you're carrying 1800-2000lbs on the front. But for road racing / cornering I have no idea what would be best.

 

[ElkySS89]

I appreciate the help. I'm actually planning on going with Vikings. Specifically, the UMI package. But it's gonna be awhile since I'm poor at the moment.

 

[CopperNick]

Interesting, Verrr-ry interesting. Something else to give some consideration to.



Nick

 

[Rt Jam]

From an engineering stand point. A bar beside the rear bumper does not add any additional support. The flimsy frame is only flimsy with no body and bumper attached to it. Also the 2 rear sections sticking out past the rear suspension do not need to be strong. I'm meaning bracing might add strength there if you are using a bumper jack.

If you are trying to stabilize the frame that is sticking out. It needs diagonal bracing, just like the under the hood and diagonals that go from front crossmember to front bumper.

Not trying to stop anyone from adding bracing but since most of us are building some type of performance car. Weight is also a penalty.

 

[Malibu795]

I appreciate the help. I'm actually planning on going with Vikings. Specifically, the UMI package. But it's gonna be awhile since I'm poor at the moment.

I bought the most the stuff individually over multiple years.. only exception is the upper/lower A-Arms i bought those together..
FWIW ...if you do the a arms separately, uppers first as lowers don't work with stock upper arms.

 

[403Olds]

There are many ways to make these cars handle better. I looked at coil overs, but ultimately went with Moog's and Bilstein shocks. My car handles pretty good on the Ohio backroads. Like many, I've switched to the Fbody front hollow sway bar, and Hellwig adjustable rear. I'm made about every brace that is discussed, all of them have helped the solid feeling of the car. I've never done any tracking, so as many said, it probably doesn't make the car any faster in the curves, but definately helps to make it more solid feeling. As we all have our opinions, I'll share mine. I recently made braces to connect the upper and lower front bumper shock mounts together. This helped the car turn slightly quicker. I've made the rears years ago, and felt that it made a simliar improvement. The Cutlass's in the 70's had a crossmember there from the factory. All the aftermarket bracing can be copied and made, so either way, it's helpful to have a solid start. Tall upper and lower front ball joints are an good improvement. There's alot of information how to help these frames stick to the ground, and many different ways to accomplish it, sometimes the search function is overwelming, but it's good to see what is working for other people. Good luck!

 

[ElkySS89]

Yea, that's my thing. I'm trying to brace it as much as possible without going overboard. I'm planning on making front and rear bumper mount braces but I'm not too sure about the under hood ones. Should I recreate the factory ones or has someone come up with a better design, like some kind of giant X brace

 

[ElkySS89]

Just got my UMI front brace bolted up. It made a huge difference. I was amazed at how well it turned into corners with so few mods. My suspension is all non-F41 factory besides the brace, Gas-A-Just shocks, and 17s. I'm sure the lighter engine is helping out a ton too

 

[ElkySS89]

Yall see any reason to not build bracing out of aluminum?