Not an expert, but it's more about volume of fuel not pressure with N2O.
I do believe excess pressure overworks the solenoid.
2 down should be right.
I do believe excess pressure overworks the solenoid.
2 down should be right.
hooking up a g-body
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i was thinking it was the same as a fuel injector...by putting a little more pressure on it when the injector goes to 100% duty cycle you get a little more gas to the system.... with out a controller the nitrous solenoid should go straight to 100% cause a solenoid only opens and closes it may be able to get more fuel to the cylinder...jest a thought... all i won't to do is reach max volume...jesse
i was thinking it was the same as a fuel injector...by putting a little more pressure on it when the injector goes to 100% duty cycle you get a little more gas to the system.... with out a controller the nitrous solenoid should go straight to 100% cause a solenoid only opens and closes it may be able to get more fuel to the cylinder...jest a thought... all i won't to do is reach max volume...jesse
What you say about an injector is true, but this is a different system.
You can tune N2O with pressure but thats when you are looking for every last bit or are trying to get 300 out of a 250 designed system :shock: .
Plus the solenoid is not the orafice that controls the amout of fuel, the pill does that, the solenoid is dumb (on /off). If you need more fuel, put in a larger pill/jet.
Just set it at 5 or whatever the instructions say.
You can tune N2O with pressure but thats when you are looking for every last bit or are trying to get 300 out of a 250 designed system :shock: .
Plus the solenoid is not the orafice that controls the amout of fuel, the pill does that, the solenoid is dumb (on /off). If you need more fuel, put in a larger pill/jet.
Just set it at 5 or whatever the instructions say.
hooking up
shotgun, i guess i was thinking on the safe side on burning a piston....
let me see if i have this right... you suggest a micron filter then the pump and the fram filter... i'am going to put a low fuel pressure shut off just in case.
i'am also thinking that i'll build a plate to install both regulators on and put a fuel gauge on the regulator..is this legal?
what cooling temp does your car run at?..i'am going to buy a new radiator...got any suggestions?
here is a pic of my engine set up...tell me what you think....jesse
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shotgun, i guess i was thinking on the safe side on burning a piston....
let me see if i have this right... you suggest a micron filter then the pump and the fram filter... i'am going to put a low fuel pressure shut off just in case.
i'am also thinking that i'll build a plate to install both regulators on and put a fuel gauge on the regulator..is this legal?
what cooling temp does your car run at?..i'am going to buy a new radiator...got any suggestions?
here is a pic of my engine set up...tell me what you think....jesse
Use a metal mesh filter ( 100 to 40 micron) between the tank and the pump.
This is to protect the pump from any junk that was pumped in with the fuel and not cause it to work "too" hard, restricition.
The second paper filter(10 micron) protects the carb and more important your N2O solenoid from small debris.
A plate is fine as long as it is "secured" well. The big one NHRA looks for is a hose clamp to rollbar down tubes which is a no no.
I try to run as cold as possible, 140/160 but mother nature does not always coperate so have been to 180.
Any generic aluminum radiator should be fine, even a fbody one will work.
I am convinced that the rad is less important then the fan set-up and proper sealing (shroud).
Which way is the bar running for your N2O?
This is to protect the pump from any junk that was pumped in with the fuel and not cause it to work "too" hard, restricition.
The second paper filter(10 micron) protects the carb and more important your N2O solenoid from small debris.
A plate is fine as long as it is "secured" well. The big one NHRA looks for is a hose clamp to rollbar down tubes which is a no no.
I try to run as cold as possible, 140/160 but mother nature does not always coperate so have been to 180.
Any generic aluminum radiator should be fine, even a fbody one will work.
I am convinced that the rad is less important then the fan set-up and proper sealing (shroud).
Which way is the bar running for your N2O?
i agree. however there are some things to consider. the coverage of the fan shroud Vs the area of the radiator core. it should cover at least 60% of it. this isnt too hard but fans do need a shroud to work more efficiently and not all fans come with a shroud. good area coverage and a fan shroud must be considered. ive seen cars without a shroud and i see no actual reason for it, weight savings of a couple pounds? get over it and enjoy a more efficient cooling system.
i personally use a b-body radiator as its as wide as the really wide radiators they put in g-bodies so they fit in perfectly provided you move the radiator bushings outward, which isnt hard. i also used a steel fan shroud top plate from a cutlass with a wide radiator. bolted in perfect and held the radiator in place perfectly. also this radiator has the trans fittings in the right places, unlike the f-body version which doesnt.
my fan is sealed very well against the core and cools it down nicely.
i also think taking your time to find the right parts and putting it all together the same way helps to produce a very efficient cooling system that is also reliable and requires little customizing to make it all work. you should never rush to get it done, it will cost you more money and more time.
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