hooking up a g-body
- Thread starter JESSE
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hooked up
after talking with you i decided not to go until i check my pinion angle, i guess i'll go buy a gauge and check it next week... sent you a pm...jesse
after talking with you i decided not to go until i check my pinion angle, i guess i'll go buy a gauge and check it next week... sent you a pm...jesse
hooking up
i hope all of you guys had a good christmas and happy new year
i'am back on my quest to run N2O,thanks to shotgun i now have a holly blue pump an a fram filter for the nos..... i was thinking about putting a one gallon fuel cell in the engine compartment with the filter and a regulator in series and away from any heat....now is this legal in nhra drag racing?
as usual i need all the help i can get and i want to thank all of you thats been helping me get to the level of fun that my car is at ....jesse
i hope all of you guys had a good christmas and happy new year
i'am back on my quest to run N2O,thanks to shotgun i now have a holly blue pump an a fram filter for the nos..... i was thinking about putting a one gallon fuel cell in the engine compartment with the filter and a regulator in series and away from any heat....now is this legal in nhra drag racing?
as usual i need all the help i can get and i want to thank all of you thats been helping me get to the level of fun that my car is at
....jesse
Jesse, as far as I know there are no rule against putting it in the engine bay. As long as you use common sense and follow thier basic rules, no rubber line etc. you will be fine.
Below is a pic of a fuel system being mocked up on a car I did. A plate was welded in where the cable ties are.
The NHRA inspector came to my shop and it passed tech to 25.5 spec. He was happy to sticker it and ended up hanging around 1 1/2 hours bs'ing.
I still like the idea I showed you in the PM. Plus you are adding weight to the front of the car now.
Also, explain your "in series" idea.
Below is a pic of a fuel system being mocked up on a car I did. A plate was welded in where the cable ties are.
The NHRA inspector came to my shop and it passed tech to 25.5 spec. He was happy to sticker it and ended up hanging around 1 1/2 hours bs'ing.
I still like the idea I showed you in the PM. Plus you are adding weight to the front of the car now.
Also, explain your "in series" idea.
hook up
what i meant by series was tank,filter,reg and solenoids... i've since changed my mind and decided to up grade my fuel line to a 1/2" hard line to the carb and install a 1/2" hard line for the nitrous...it just seems like the best way to improve fuel to the carb...when i install the reg for the nitrous, what pressure should i run?
it seems the only way to buy hard line is a 25 ft roll, so i have to buy 2 rolls to make sure i have enough...i plan on running from pump to reg with out any rubber hose.. will this work? ive been waiting to talk to you before i order any parts....jesse
what i meant by series was tank,filter,reg and solenoids... i've since changed my mind and decided to up grade my fuel line to a 1/2" hard line to the carb and install a 1/2" hard line for the nitrous...it just seems like the best way to improve fuel to the carb...when i install the reg for the nitrous, what pressure should i run?
it seems the only way to buy hard line is a 25 ft roll, so i have to buy 2 rolls to make sure i have enough...i plan on running from pump to reg with out any rubber hose.. will this work? ive been waiting to talk to you before i order any parts....jesse
I like the idea of the paper filter after the fuel pump, mesh before.
Atleast do it that way on the N2O side of the fuel system,one bit of debris in the fuel solenoid could equal melted pistons.
You could run 3/8 or #6 lines on the N2O fuel side to save some coin.#6 is good to 375 hp on a properly designed system.
The N2O side should only need 5 psi.
I need to correct myself, you "can" run certain NHRA approved rubber line but it's cost seems similar to braided/solid.Most do it for the weight savings.
I got some short #6 braided stuff laying around and some fittings also if you need them.
Atleast do it that way on the N2O side of the fuel system,one bit of debris in the fuel solenoid could equal melted pistons.
You could run 3/8 or #6 lines on the N2O fuel side to save some coin.#6 is good to 375 hp on a properly designed system.
The N2O side should only need 5 psi.
I need to correct myself, you "can" run certain NHRA approved rubber line but it's cost seems similar to braided/solid.Most do it for the weight savings.
I got some short #6 braided stuff laying around and some fittings also if you need them.
hooked up
thanks,shotgun....
that means i can just take the current supply to the carb and put it to the nitrous and just install 1 1 /2 line for the carb...saving coin already
just a dumb question, why not a higher setting on the fuel side of the nitrous system,is 5 psi the limit on the solenoids?
i just bought a angle meter and thought i would check the pinion angle,i think you said 2 degrees down ...is there anything else i need to check?
jesse
thanks,shotgun....
that means i can just take the current supply to the carb and put it to the nitrous and just install 1 1 /2 line for the carb...saving coin already
just a dumb question, why not a higher setting on the fuel side of the nitrous system,is 5 psi the limit on the solenoids?
i just bought a angle meter and thought i would check the pinion angle,i think you said 2 degrees down ...is there anything else i need to check?
jesse
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