How Crappy Is Your Air Cleaner?

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Better to have an engineer err on the side of conservativeness than have one who welds 1" thick plate to his frame. I genuinely believe that we all only want the best for each other here, and offer the best advice possible to see everyone succeed in their projects. The intention is not to beat anyone up... unless you try to convince us that welding on 2" thick plate is a well engineered solution.

Ha . . .

How 'bout [8] 1/8" plates strategically welded along both frame rails at specific weak points? That's still 1" . . .

Hey come on! I gotta weld something on it . . . 🙁
 
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Ha . . .

How 'bout [8] 1/8" plates strategically welded along both frame rails at specific weak points? That's still 1" . . .

Hey come on! I gotta weld something on it . . . 🙁
Garth, Mike was throwing a jab at a recent post of a new member who exited the forum rather quickly! He was showing off his boxed elco frame where he used WAY too thick of material, and didn't have proper weld penetration. Said guy thought his frame was top notch, but when the constructive criticism was unleashed he took it like a little girl, tucked tail and ran lol!!!!

Anybody wanting to box a frame can use 14 gauge and it will be plenty strong enough if welded properly. I'm kicking my own butt for not boxing my frame, and if the LS swap starts to wreak havoc then I will weld in sections to stiffen it up.

Scott
 
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Yeah, I caught that . . .

Well, box in what I got or buy one of them $10000 Schwartz Performance frames . . . 😵

http://www.schwartzperformance.com/1978-1988-g-body-monte-carlo-chassis/

Unfortunately, I already have my incompatible 8.5" rear almost done or . . . nope, I still wouldn't do that.

Hey, I'm not saying they aren't worth it. Plus the guy has the right to make some money on an extremely low volume piece.

I'm gonna try REAL hard to just finish my build as planned for now . . . I missed an entire year and most of the last one of even driving the ole girl at all!
I still think Hutch is gonna beat me done . . . :doh:

And you could hear a pin drop . . . 🙄
 
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Garth, Mike was throwing a jab at a recent post of a new member who exited the forum rather quickly! He was showing off his boxed elco frame where he used WAY too thick of material, and didn't have proper weld penetration. Said guy thought his frame was top notch, but when the constructive criticism was unleashed he took it like a little girl, tucked tail and ran lol!!!!
He is still on here and still makes posts.
 
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There are a few issues with this test. While the open air cleaners may flow more air, it would be hot and turbulent air which would counteract the airflow gain. Also those filter element lids improve top end power while reducing low and mid range power since they decrease the pressure differential under the carb. Might be useful on a track car with a ram scoop, but poor on a street car where you need low and mid power.
 
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Well . . . any need at this point to keep that humongous plastic radiator overflow?

Since I went to a 4 row, this big block runs 190 whether it's 40 or 90 out and have never seen a drop in it.

If it goes bye bye, I can go 4" hard plumb out farther both directions, 90 forward, 4" hard plumb forward about 18", 45 down, into the filters. No dryer hose, no 4 to 3.5 back to 4. Of course, this means all the pieces I have cut and glued together for what I showed previously won't work 🙁 but it's just plastic and I can likely reuse a lot of it cut and formed differently.
I know I said NO MORE CHANGES! But, I actually hooked the above up . . . and it looks like kluged crap . . . on a showcar! :doh:

Although did you know that "kluge" comes from the German word "klug" which actually means "clever"? Clever crap? 😕
 
any need at this point to keep that humongous plastic radiator overflow?
I ran this coolant tank for a few years before I switched over to an aluminum tank.
OFK4772.jpg
 
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