Hydroboost pedal rod?

[pontiacgp]

I’m sorry, are there too many questions in here?

better to ask than to guess and end up saying

 

[fleming442]

I'd start by cutting it 1/4" short of your end goal. Then, see what the rod is- hollow? I'd thread it internally for a rod end. Solid? Thread it externally for a clevice....... Luckily, you still have the original, so you can measure it exactly before installation.

 

[UC645]

Figured I’d drag this one up from near dead, found out that it might not be possible to thread the rod.
First and foremost, I’ll have to cut nearly 3 inches out of the rod, and find a way to hold it so I can thread it. Problem is, there will be next to nothing to thread on to let along hold it in a fixture tight enough to keep it from spinning:

I’ll probably only be able to thread half an inch at best, and with the overall length of the rod end, I might not get more than an inch reduction in length.
Then there’s the second problem- the overall diameter of the rod is .480. Nearly .045 too large to easily thread 7/16-20 and .020 too small for a proper 1/2-13 thread. To make that make sense, the peaks of external threads are as large as they’re called out on the charts, so 7/16-20=0.4375 overall, and 1/2-13=0.500.
It might be possible to thread the rod to 7/16-20, so if all else fails I’ll attempt it.
Cutting and welding the rod is also out of the question because I don’t have a high enough amperage welder to get good weld penetration. Even with a sleeve I’d be afraid of it breaking.
All of that leaves me with the A body style standoff brackets, and modifying a pedal with a sort of extension to move the attachment point further towards the driver, moving the pedal down.
Either way, I’ll post what I come up with after I take a few measurements.

 

[UC645]

Figured I’d drag this one up from near dead, found out that it might not be possible to thread the rod.
First and foremost, I’ll have to cut nearly 3 inches out of the rod, and find a way to hold it so I can thread it. Problem is, there will be next to nothing to thread on to let along hold it in a fixture tight enough to keep it from spinning:
View attachment 152222

I’ll probably only be able to thread half an inch at best, and with the overall length of the rod end, I might not get more than an inch reduction in length.
Then there’s the second problem- the overall diameter of the rod is .480. Nearly .045 too large to easily thread 7/16-20 and .020 too small for a proper 1/2-13 thread. To make that make sense, the peaks of external threads are as large as they’re called out on the charts, so 7/16-20=0.4375 overall, and 1/2-13=0.500.
It might be possible to thread the rod to 7/16-20, so if all else fails I’ll attempt it.
Cutting and welding the rod is also out of the question because I don’t have a high enough amperage welder to get good weld penetration. Even with a sleeve I’d be afraid of it breaking.
All of that leaves me with the A body style standoff brackets, and modifying a pedal with a sort of extension to move the attachment point further towards the driver, moving the pedal down.
Either way, I’ll post what I come up with after I take a few measurements.

I’m going to redact most of the first paragraph in this post. Math was never my strong suit, let alone geometry.
I’ve got a 1996-2000 unit.

If the earlier units are a bolt in swap
with an adapter plate, it’s because the shorter rod and the elevated pin location for the brake pedal work to take up the inch difference in rod length.

 

[shoedoos]

 

[UC645]

I’ve seen that method tossed around on other forums, but I’m worried about damaging the crimping that holds the rod in place if I go to pull it out. The other problem is that Tallon Hydraulics is defunct.