Idle problem

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pontiacgp said:
start the car and kill one spark plug wire at time....if the knock goes away you'll know which cylinder it's coming from and it's probably a rod bearing. The other thing you can check is the flex plate, I've had them break and it can sound just like a bearing knock

I may have to try that.... Problem is though is it ONLY does it while it's idling IN gear.... and it's just barely running at that time too...

If it's a rod bearing I guess I'll just have to live with it a little longer until I can get the 350 swapped in.... Or it blows up... Whichever happens first...

Flexplate looked good when I had the drivetrain apart a few years ago.... (and yes it was doing this before that too).

If it didn't run so good when it's in Park/Neutral or while driving it'd be a lot easier to figure out.... But it runs just fine then...
 
When you turned the AC on, it sounded like a rod knock, but if so then it would really bang at high rpm's. Anything loose, like motor mounts? Compressor? Did you try using an auto stethascope to listen around? A piece of garden hose works too. Otherwise the motor sounds fine, pretty car too.
 
it could be a simple as a carbon knock...you can try steam cleaning it with distilled water or some transmission fluid down the carb but make sure your neighbours aren't home cause the white smoke from the transmission fluid can cause problems with the natives...
 
Bonnewagon said:
When you turned the AC on, it sounded like a rod knock, but if so then it would really bang at high rpm's. Anything loose, like motor mounts? Compressor? Did you try using an auto stethascope to listen around? A piece of garden hose works too. Otherwise the motor sounds fine, pretty car too.

That was my thinking too... But it's as smooth as can be at higher RPM's.... Nothing loose that I can find.... I have tried the auto stethoscope before but I can try again... and thanks 8)
 
pontiacgp said:
it could be a simple as a carbon knock...you can try steam cleaning it with distilled water or some transmission fluid down the carb but make sure your neighbours aren't home cause the white smoke from the transmission fluid can cause problems with the natives...

I actually just used seafoam on it the other day.... didn't really make any difference in how it ran...
 
Well my dad finally watched the video and he thinks the torque converter staying locked up and loading the engine up too much.... Which is something I had kinda suspected was happening......

Guess it's time to take it to AAMCO and get the trans looked at and at the very least the TCC solenoid and torque converter replaced if not the whole thing rebuilt...
 
My limited experience with lock up converter problems is that they unlock when the car is shut off, then when they lock up again, they stay locked and it loads the motor, stalling it.. It is actually a tiny little solenoid type plug that is actuated electrically by the computer and blocks oil flow out of the torque converter clutch. In rare cases will it stay locked no matter what, but that usually means the car is starting locked in gear and is obvious. Unplugging the electrical connector on the side of the trans should keep it from locking, unless it is dirty and sticking as described previously.
 
Bonnewagon said:
My limited experience with lock up converter problems is that they unlock when the car is shut off, then when they lock up again, they stay locked and it loads the motor, stalling it.. It is actually a tiny little solenoid type plug that is actuated electrically by the computer and blocks oil flow out of the torque converter clutch. In rare cases will it stay locked no matter what, but that usually means the car is starting locked in gear and is obvious. Unplugging the electrical connector on the side of the trans should keep it from locking, unless it is dirty and sticking as described previously.

I think what's happening is it's locking normally as it's supposed to but as it gets hotter the solenoid starts sticking partially locked when it's supposed to unlock.....
 
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