Fast Idle Faster!

[Bonnewagon]

I hate OBD1. Even brand new cars had a hard time passing the sniffer test. Then they went to that ultra-stupid drive-along IM-240 test on the rollers. The car was lashed down onto the rollers and the tester had to follow the graph on the screen and the sniffer had to be spot on or you failed. Everyone hated that thing. OBD2 saved us from that horror.

Ways I have fooled the sniffer:
I had a 1976 Pontiac LeMans with the 2 barrel Pontiac 350. It would not pass the idle sniffer test. I swapped the jets on the 2GC carb and went down about 10 sizes. The car had no balls but sure did pass the idle test. After passing I put some much richer jets in and it ran great. So a once-a-year carb rebuild got me past the sniffer.

My 1981 Chevy Malibu wagon with the 229 V-6 and electronic Dualjet carb would not pass. I rebuilt the carb, did everything I could tuning it up. No good. So I yanked the 229, and replaced it with the stock Pontiac 350 from the LeMans. It passed with flying colors- no computer at all. Go figure. I also made it a 4 speed manual. Great car.

My 1980 Firebird with the 301 and Quadrajet would not pass. At the time I was experimenting with the early Holley throttle body fuel injection. I put that in place of the Q-jet and had the control box inside the car with me. As the tester was testing, I slowly leaned out the idle by turning the idle dial on the control unit. As the numbers fell the tester went crazy."WTF are you doing!?!" he screamed. When he said "STOP-YOU PASSED!", I finally showed him what I had and how it worked. HA HA! Was he amazed!

Now all my fun cars are old like me and only have to pass the basic safety test here in NY.

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

CA is pretty strict and likely to perform a visual inspection of the engine. Again, working on CCC systems isn't hard, there is just some homework to do. The service videos I posted make learning how to repair CCC systems easy. Wish I had access to such videos when I started.

Its not just with G bodies, but all classic cars pretty much require their owners to know how to repair them as modern professionals are not trained to work on antiques. Many experienced mechanics even tell new mechanics to refuse worki on old cars as they are often more trouble for less money. More likely to have to fix weird or extreme problems, having to learn outdated automotive technology and special outdated tools, parts scarcity, identify stock vs Jerry rigging, and fighting with rust vs fixing new cars. The profit is in newer stuff where all they need to do is scan and swap parts.

 

[DWCaprice2017]

Sounds like idle hang, where the idle hangs at fast speed not wanting to kick down.

Great video, thank you!

 

[DWCaprice2017]

CA is pretty strict and likely to perform a visual inspection of the engine. Again, working on CCC systems isn't hard, there is just some homework to do. The service videos I posted make learning how to repair CCC systems easy. Wish I had access to such videos when I started.

Its not just with G bodies, but all classic cars pretty much require their owners to know how to repair them as modern professionals are not trained to work on antiques. Many experienced mechanics even tell new mechanics to refuse worki on old cars as they are often more trouble for less money. More likely to have to fix weird or extreme problems, having to learn outdated automotive technology and special outdated tools, parts scarcity, identify stock vs Jerry rigging, and fighting with rust vs fixing new cars. The profit is in newer stuff where all they need to do is scan and swap parts.

Here in the Los Angeles area (San Fernando Valley), I've called many shops--none want to deal with my "antique"!
If I had a good work space (I live in an apartment) and the time, I think I'd be able to figure out the engine problem(s) myself.
I started the car yesterday morning, it wouldn't come off the (cold) fast idle. I stopped the engine, sprayed some carb cleaner on the pieces, re-started, with a tap, it went from fast idle to middle fast, then with another tap, to low idle which was fairly smooth. Then I ran the car up and down the street a few times to charge the battery a bit, then parked it, the idle was rough, also I'm certain the idle speed is a bit low from the last (of three times) I had the carb rebuilt. I don't think he knew how to adjust things properly, just how to take apart and put back together the jigsaw puzzle. Tomorrow, I have off, I'll finally check the spark plugs and re-check the vacuum lines.

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

Here in the Los Angeles area (San Fernando Valley), I've called many shops--none want to deal with my "antique"!
If I had a good work space (I live in an apartment) and the time, I think I'd be able to figure out the engine problem(s) myself.
I started the car yesterday morning, it wouldn't come off the (cold) fast idle. I stopped the engine, sprayed some carb cleaner on the pieces, re-started, with a tap, it went from fast idle to middle fast, then with another tap, to low idle which was fairly smooth. Then I ran the car up and down the street a few times to charge the battery a bit, then parked it, the idle was rough, also I'm certain the idle speed is a bit low from the last (of three times) I had the carb rebuilt. I don't think he knew how to adjust things properly, just how to take apart and put back together the jigsaw puzzle. Tomorrow, I have off, I'll finally check the spark plugs and re-check the vacuum lines.

Not surprised, mechanics generally only want to work on current technology. They are not trained for old technology nor do they want to learn or purchase antique tools and equipment. Most experienced mechanics even warn new mechanics to not work on old cars due to the poor profit margins, scarce replacement parts, sub par parts,lack of support, jerry rigging, and fighting rust. The auto industry is designed to force you to junk your older car and go into debt buying new. They don't want you to keep a car for decades and actively sabotage your efforts.

Getting an analog dwell meter will help a lot, they usually have a tachometer mode so you can check the idle speed. The curb idle speed needs to be checked with the trans in drive. Unfortunately idle speed adjustments usually requires the TPS to also be readjusted. If you have a timing light you may want to check the base ignition timing too.