im thinking bout swaping to a manual trans

[cutlass79]

alright to start off iv never done a auto to manual trans swap. so im kinda wornder what all i will need to do the swap? and what would be the best trans to run.so im sure i will have to get a manual trans at some point so what would be a good match for a sbc350. the lower end and heads are stock with no work done sept a mild race cam and head swap.cast year 1976 for the block and 1978 for the heads witch are 305 heads. im running long tube headers and a full 3'' exhaust with 3''40series flowmaster. edelbrock performer intake and 650cfm edelbrock carb.and right now have a th400 trans with shift kit and all works grate togetter. but im planing on building up to around 400-500hp so would like a manual trans that would be a good match for the motor i have now and what i plan on doing to it.something that i can play with and still hit the highway with out tackin out.the car is my daly summer driver.so what manual trannys do some of u like in ur daly drivers. and what all do i need to pull off the swap?

 

[drogg1]

Not an expert on the subject but for starters:

What kind of rear gears do you plan on running? These will need to be matched with the gearing of the trans you pick.

T5's are common swaps as are some of the four speeds. You'll need the clutch assembly from a manual car which can be bought or adapted from another model manual.

Just for starters. I'm sure someone else will chime in.

 

[cutlass79]

im not sure what gear ima run in the rear i just kno ima run a posi rear dif.does a t5 have any computers in it is a 5 speed right?

 

[cutlass79]

 

[mechanic58]

You're going to need lots of parts. I just got done installing a 454 with a Richmond 4-speed behind it in a '79 Malibu. I had an advantage over you though because the car was already a factory 3-speed floor shift car - so it already had all the clutch linkage and the correct pedal assembly, etc. The only problem I had to deal with was having to modify the clutch linkage to work with the HUGE hooker headers that I used when I installed the engine. Hooker says they won't work with a manual trans...but they lied, it can be done. I took some pics, should give you a general idea what you're going to be into. Here's a list of what you're going to need though:

1. Manual trans
2. Suitable bellhousing with clutch fork
3. Flywheel and clutch assembly for your engine
4. Pilot bushing/bearing for the crank
5. Throwout bearing
6. G-body clutch linkage hardware
7. G-body clutch/brake pedal assembly
8. Shifter assembly and all the linkage (as required)
9. Shorter driveshaft if you go with a T-5 (A Muncie, Richmond, Saginaw or Borg Warner 4-speed will bolt in place of a TH350)

The biggest wh*re of this job is going to be changing out the pedal assembly. You are going to have to remove the steering column to facilitate this. It's a wh*re.

In the pictures below you can see where I had to put an offset in the z-bar to clear the #5 exhaust tube. The additional hole that you see that I drilled in the pedal is because I also had to change the geometry of the linkage a little bit because I also had to shorten the engine side bellcrank on the z-bar for addtional header clearance and so that I would have better alignment the A-body Chevelle type clutch fork that I used. (The G-body forks are made differently)

And finally, one last note before the pics - when you get ready to drill holes in the z-bar brackets and the clutch pedal, make sure you have some GOOD drillbits, a nice drill press, cutting oil and possibly even a torch. This sh*t is harder than the hinges of hell.

My modified z-bar:

The relocated adjuster rod mount hole (engine side), the old mount hole was cut off later for clearance:

Modified clutch pedal. Had to drill another hole for the linkage rod, both to drop it down to accommodate the modified z-bar and to change the geometry to accommodate the shortened bellcrank:

Linkage installed. Note the offset in the z-bar to clear the header tube. This also required modifying the hole in the firewall:

Pic from the bottom, linkage installed:

Pic from the inner fenderwell area:

Different angle, fenderwell area:

 

[mechanic58]

Oh, forgot to mention that IF you decide to do this, the very first thing you need to do once you get ready to start installing the clutch linkage will be remove the brake mastercylinder and the brake booster, the driver's side inner fenderwell and the steering column.

Also, good luck finding these parts in a junkyard, they are rare as hen's teeth. You'll likely have to purchase them online somewhere. It'll be money well spent though - you'll spend all your asspocket money on gas, driving around...trying to find this stuff in a junkyard.

 

[pontiacgp]

2. clutch fork
5. Throwout bearing
6. G-body clutch linkage hardware

you won't need the above if you go with a hydraulic throwout bearing but you will need a master

for the clutch pedal you can use an F body cluch pedal and add 3/4" to it's length and move the pin for the rod from the master back an inch. The master fits the hole in the firewall that is for the wiring for the cruise control. You just need to drill 2 holes through the firewall to secure the master. When you add the 3/4" piece just tack weld it so you can mock it up to make sure the foot pad is in the right location for you. You need to use the bolt for the F body pedals to hand the pedlas using the G body pedal assembly housing and the nylon bushing out of the F body pedals. You can cut the foot pad of the G body brake pedal to match the foot pad for a standard pedal and bend the shaft of the brake pedal to move it over towards the gas pedal about 1"

 

[anakputa]

I used a Hydraulic throw out bearing, 86 Camaro Bellhousing for a V8. I removed the flange that the slave cylinder bolts too. Then I used a Mcleod racing Clutch Master Cylinder and used braided lines that came with the throwout bearing. The firewall sheet metal would flex to much when I was using the s-10 clutch master cylinder. The freeking rod was weak and bent over time. I made a bracket that the clutch Master Cylinder and Power Brake booster bolted too.

 

[pontiacgp]

anakputa...I used the F body master and the two rods that is used on the F body and there isn't any noticeable flex on the firewall. I use the Howe hydraulic throw out bearing. The piston diameter in the F body master is perfect for the Howe

 

[mechanic58]

I actually purchased a McCleod hydraulic throwout kit - paid nearly $500 for it if memory serves me correctly. After I got it in my greasy little hands I realized it was a waste of money. It turned out to be less work to modify the mechanical linkage AND it would never be affected by the heat and close proximity to the headers on the car, etc. I sent the McCleod kit back and got my money refunded.