intake manifold removal/installation

[83cutlasssedan]

thanks alot. good to know about the fuel filter. The wife and I went for another drive tonight and I think the new sound just needs some getting used to. It was very quiet with the ole carb and manifold. you can really here the new intake breathing when you stomp on it. I think the new sound will grow on me. 😀

 

[pontiacgp]

the filter is larger for a reason....it slows the flow down so it can filter it better...

 

[pontiacgp]

how's that intake working out? My friend who does alot with GN was pretty interested in how it works out. He doesn't know anyone else who has done it and put a 4 barrel on a v6...

 

[83cutlasssedan]

So far it's great! The increase in torque is really noticeable and is running a lot smoother overall. The tone of the engine was a pretty drastic change that I wasn't expecting. It's got a little more growl when idling, and it's got a pretty deep throaty sound when the extra 2 barrels kick in. I still have the stock exhaust and 26 year old converter on there so I think some new exhaust would let it breath a lot more. It's no sbc v8 or anything but I was never expecting or going for that. My long term goal is to get the olds(buick) running better than new and having a really efficient engine (power vs cubic inch). This intake and carb is just the beginning. 😀

 

[pontiacgp]

6 cylinder engines aren't a slow as some think....remember there is alot less internal weight in that engine to get spinning

 

[83cutlasssedan]

more advance/less advance, neither is "better" there is CORRECT advance. since you've done the manifold and eliminated things you need to re-tune the engine. this means the carb and timing. it is going to take some experimentation. the best way is usually with a vacuum sensor plugged into manifold vacuum. you tune for the highest vac reading, then drive and figure out if there are bad spots.
for timing i prefer the redneck way. set by ear for the best idle, then drive the car. go easy at first, when you get pinging, retard the distributor. then go a little harder. repeat as necessary. when you can be at 30mph and do a WOT run and a standing WOT run with no problems you have the max safe advance.

do you mean with a vacuum gauge plugged into manifold vacuum. then set timing to the maximum vacuum reading while at idle? is the highest vacuum reading the best advance for performance?
thanks

 

[megaladon6]

sorry i did leave that a little conflicting. i meant tune the carb with the vac gauge for the best reading. this will be the most efficient setting, and the most power. with a stock engine/cam you can do this with the timing, but it's not the most effective. i prefer my redneck method. since you haven't made many mods you'll probably only need a couple degrees more advanced timing.

 

[83cutlasssedan]

So i advanced the timing 2 degrees today from stock 15 to 17. It seems better. The vacuum gauge topped out at 20". What I don't understand is that at idle I can basically keep turning the distributor untill the marking is off the scale past 20 degrees, and the idle just gets faster. Does that mean I should be setting even more advance than 17?

Also, after that was done I tried resetting the idle to 550 as per the label, but I can only get it as low as 600rpm and the idle screw is not longer touching the bracket. Is there any way I can get it down another 50rpm to 550?

 

[pontiacgp]

the engine might idle higher but that's with no load on it...once there is load it'll ping if it's too advanced..and you do have the vacuum advance vacuum line removed and plugged?

 

[83cutlasssedan]

yes it was removed and plugged. So I guess I should just advance a degree at a time and test it out? As long as it's not pinging or knocking I should continue to advance?