Its me again.

[Bri guy]

When i brought the old one in (off the car) they said it had a bad voltage regulator.....also when they tested on the car, bad voltage regulator

 

[Bri guy]

Volts at the battery and alt say 14.7. With the old alt it said 12.4ish

 

[pagrunt]

This alt is the same specs as the alt that came off the car. On the other alt, that shiny bolt lined up with the brace. But i dont think the brace is needed...could be an extra part that was thrown on during the swap. Alternator is nice and tight. I figured the alt was being grounded by the bracket its mounted to. Figured i would ask.....unless your saying i need an alt with an internal regulator? Theres not alot of options for a vbelt alt.....

Don't know why but I did have a brain fart with that bolt, it is the brace mount bolt but since it doesn't line up you should get one that is in the correct clock position to ensure the alternator is properly mounted to prevent any possible movement. But it can still be used a ground point depending on application. As that sticker, someone incorrectly put it on the alternator as GM did away with external regulators in the early '70's.

 

[Bri guy]

I called autozone. They said they will order a new one and see what the clocking position is on that. Also had him verify if it has an internal or external. So does have internal. Your right, someone mislabeled it

 

[5spdCab]

Don't know why but I did have a brain fart with that bolt, it is the brace mount bolt but since it doesn't line up you should get one that is in the correct clock position to ensure the alternator is properly mounted to prevent any possible movement. But it can still be used a ground point depending on application. As that sticker, someone incorrectly put it on the alternator as GM did away with external regulators in the early '70's.

A person can "reclock" an alternator themselves, just don't separate the two halves too far and release the brushes on the commutator. Then again, if you exchange for one "clocked" properly, it only costs you time and gas.

 

[Bri guy]

A person can "reclock" an alternator themselves, just don't separate the two halves too far and release the brushes on the commutator. Then again, if you exchange for one "clocked" properly, it only costs you time and gas.

Theyre just up the street. It has a lifetime warranty so i dont really want to mess with it and void the warrranty

 

[5spdCab]

Theyre just up the street. It has a lifetime warranty so i dont really want to mess with it and void the warrranty

Yea, in the end, that is a good decision.

 

[Bri guy]

Batteries are expensive 👀 but im gonna get this one (if it fits) when i get the new alt. Any reasons not to get it?

 

[olds307 and 403]

Batteries are expensive 👀 but im gonna get this one (if it fits) when i get the new alt. Any reasons not to get it?

You guys pay the same price as we do for batteries up here. I usually buy the 800 CCA batteries as well. My 1970 was on of the last year's GM used the external regulator alternator. Mine had a 41 amp alternator, I believe that was the upgrade, base was 28 amps😂 I believe. I bought a Summit 70 amp replacement, the performance test tag showed 53 amps at idle, more than the old maxed out and 82 amps at cruise. You have to pay big bucks to get any bigger with the old external voltage regulator alternators. Works great and voltage doesn't drop like the old one. Wish I could say the same about the last two reman alternators. One was a Champion, actually AC Delco Mexican reman CS130, supposedly optional in 88, 94 amp. It dies within a year, no CS130 replacement available, so I get a 94 12SI Wilson reman. I thought good, it has to be better than the multiple dead 100 amp 10SI chrome alternators. The only one that lasted probably put out 80 amps and it still had a regulator die. The Wilson POS needed to be revved to start charging then a bearing started going. I switched to the serpentine setup with a CS130 105 amp lifetime warranty AC Delco alternator from Rockauto. Get the 94 amp if itt has a good warranty. My 88 came with a 70 amp 10SI, obviously not the original. I put on the billet under drive pulleys, not only lost cooling, great on a 403 but charging as well. First chrome replacement was barely better, next one 2 years, then a year and a year. Man I have gone through way too many alternators 🙄

 

[5spdCab]

You guys pay the same price as we do for batteries up here. I usually buy the 800 CCA batteries as well. My 1970 was on of the last year's GM used the external regulator alternator. Mine had a 41 amp alternator, I believe that was the upgrade, base was 28 amps😂 I believe. I bought a Summit 70 amp replacement, the performance test tag showed 53 amps at idle, more than the old maxed out and 82 amps at cruise. You have to pay big bucks to get any bigger with the old external voltage regulator alternators. Works great and voltage doesn't drop like the old one. Wish I could say the same about the last two reman alternators. One was a Champion, actually AC Delco Mexican reman CS130, supposedly optional in 88, 94 amp. It dies within a year, no CS130 replacement available, so I get a 94 12SI Wilson reman. I thought good, it has to be better than the multiple dead 100 amp 10SI chrome alternators. The only one that lasted probably put out 80 amps and it still had a regulator die. The Wilson POS needed to be revved to start charging then a bearing started going. I switched to the serpentine setup with a CS130 105 amp lifetime warranty AC Delco alternator from Rockauto. Get the 94 amp if itt has a good warranty. My 88 came with a 70 amp 10SI, obviously not the original. I put on the billet under drive pulleys, not only lost cooling, great on a 403 but charging as well. First chrome replacement was barely better, next one 2 years, then a year and a year. Man I have gone through way too many alternators 🙄

You being up in the great white north, I agree with your 800 cca batteries, even bigger if you can fit one.