So it sounds like I want to go with the 5606? I imagine the weight of my Buick 350 and the turbo V6 is pretty close.
BUILD THREAD JRP's '87 Regal Thread
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So it sounds like I want to go with the 5606? I imagine the weight of my Buick 350 and the turbo V6 is pretty close.
That's what I would use. I would suggest the 5608 but since you plan on lowering the car in the future that would kinda defeat the point since that would put the ride height higher than the 5606.
I used GN moog springs. Settled a bit. Maybe 1-1.5" after a while.
This is after I first got them installed. The tires fool the eye a bit. 225/75/15.
Here's a recent one with 235/60/15.
This is after I first got them installed. The tires fool the eye a bit. 225/75/15.
Here's a recent one with 235/60/15.
Too soft for my taste. I'd do a 5658 or 5660 minimum.
Jordan, your car sits nicely.
Makes sense. Main thing is I don't want the springs to mess with the ride height. I want any lowering to come from the spindles, not the springs.
Makes sense. Main thing is I don't want the springs to mess with the ride height. I want any lowering to come from the spindles, not the springs.
I'm still trying to figure out what I want to do for a-arms, but I think I can rule out rebuilding the originals. By the time I have them cleaned and powdercoated and install new bushings and ball joints, it'd be cheaper to just buy the Moog problem solver arms. I really would like tubular arms though. Not because I need them, just because I can. The only two tubular arms I like are the UMIs and the BMRs (why are all suspension companies 3 letters/numbers? UMI, BMR, QA1, CPP, SPC, PST, etc...). I like the UMI ones a little more because they are adjustable and can be adjusted so that no alignment shims are needed.
And I still have no idea what I should do for coil springs. I like the way MrSony's car sits with the F41 GN springs but I don't know how it would take another 2" of drop from the spindles. Maybe MrSony can shed some light on that.
Winter is pretty much upon us (they are saying snow on Thursday) and I still don't have any heat in the garage (yet) which makes it a little more difficult to work. The garage is 32'x20'x8', which means I probably need around a 50k BTU heater minimum. Bruce offered me a nice looking 75k BTU heater, but my dad didn't want me drilling any holes in the brick for a flue pipe. However I think he's slowly coming to the realization that any serious type of heating system is going to require a flue.
My great aunt passed away late last night, she's been sick for several weeks and I don't think anyone was expecting her to make it. She lived in Brooklyn so the funeral is in NY. I'm assuming the funeral will probably be this weekend so I'll be out of town probably Friday and Saturday. With that going on, I don't see much getting done on the car this weekend. Anyways, short update and no real progress to report but I'm not becoming disinterested in it.
And I still have no idea what I should do for coil springs. I like the way MrSony's car sits with the F41 GN springs but I don't know how it would take another 2" of drop from the spindles. Maybe MrSony can shed some light on that.
Winter is pretty much upon us (they are saying snow on Thursday) and I still don't have any heat in the garage (yet) which makes it a little more difficult to work. The garage is 32'x20'x8', which means I probably need around a 50k BTU heater minimum. Bruce offered me a nice looking 75k BTU heater, but my dad didn't want me drilling any holes in the brick for a flue pipe. However I think he's slowly coming to the realization that any serious type of heating system is going to require a flue.
My great aunt passed away late last night, she's been sick for several weeks and I don't think anyone was expecting her to make it. She lived in Brooklyn so the funeral is in NY. I'm assuming the funeral will probably be this weekend so I'll be out of town probably Friday and Saturday. With that going on, I don't see much getting done on the car this weekend. Anyways, short update and no real progress to report but I'm not becoming disinterested in it.
My condolences.
I wouldn't go a 2" drop spindle with that spring. I'm no suspension geometry expert, but if my car was 2" lower, the wheel/tire combo I have would rub at full lock, maybe not even full, on the fender lips. I'd poke around and see what turbo regal guys are doing. That's why I mentioned going the stock route, stuff you know works, just to get the thing driving, then save up, do some research, find what works aftermarket wise, and go from there. I was really tempted to go tubular to, but due to time and money constraints at the time, I had to run with what I had. Made it easier.
Thanks for your sympathy.
Maybe I want to stick with an actual V8 spring, like a 307 spring if I go with the drop spindles. I definitely don't want to be rubbing on the fenders or the frame.
If it's not obvious, there is no time restraint, but the price of the tubular arms is just a tough pill to swallow. Still, I really want them.
I might have missed it, blame it on the Diet Busch, but why not just buy the Speedway upper arms, rebuild your lowers and be done with it? I can't remember how it was exactly but im pretty sure for G-body cars you buy 2 right side upper control arms for a Camaro and they work perfect on our cars. They are/were the cheapest upper arms I could find. That's what I did on my 83 anyway.
Just a thought, but you might want to hold off on the dropped spindles until you get some miles on the new springs (whatever # you decide on) to let them settle. My car is still riding on OG everything and my 14" tires occasionally rub backing out of driveways with the wheel cranked. I'd never get away with dropped spindles. I know that has a lot to do with width and offset though.
You can always install drops or clip a coil after you've driven it a bit and know what the actual stance is going to be. I know it's two stages but you'll likely end up replacing something anyway so it's probably not actually more work in the grand scheme.
You can always install drops or clip a coil after you've driven it a bit and know what the actual stance is going to be. I know it's two stages but you'll likely end up replacing something anyway so it's probably not actually more work in the grand scheme.
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