BUILD THREAD JRP's '87 Regal Thread

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Sorry heres the link.
Heres the brackets
20200628_121413.jpg

Ill pm you later about sending the brackets and hopefully the body mount too.
 
Sorry heres the link.
Heres the bracketsView attachment 150092
Ill pm you later about sending the brackets and hopefully the body mount too.

Awesome! Yeah PM me and we'll work something out. Thanks!
 
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It'll probably take another week at least but I'm trying to come up with ideas for lifting the body up off the frame. I figure I'm this far, it's only 10 bolts or something and I've had them off before. It'll give me the working room I need to address the inner rocker/body mount area on the drivers side, and floors and I'll also be able to run the fuel lines and brake lines neatly the way I want them. Considering boxing the frame, I like that Hellwig kit but $500 seems steep for ten cents worth of steel.

I'm really not worried about the physical lifting part, we deadlifted this up last time and I'm fairly certain I can do it again. I'm more concerned with how to set it up. Last time I had a set of stands that I borrowed and I won't have those this time. I'm leaning towards concrete blocks and 4x4s in the same manner as last time.

joe2014299.jpg


Only this time I should be able to roll the frame out from underneath because there is no motor or transmission to get hung up on. Also I'm in my own garage so I can take my time and work at my own pace.

My primary concern is to not put additional stress on the body, particularly the roof pillars once it’s up on strands. It doesn't have the floors in it so any strength they provide isn't there this time around, and I will be working on the driver's inner rocker area so I can't count on it a whole lot for strength. Possibly weld some temporary braces in? I'm just thinking out loud here, but I'd love to hear any suggestions.
 
From every article or thread I’ve seen, the most common bracing seems to be a 1 inch square tube from the top of the inner sills(if that’s what they’re called), typically in the middle of the floor. As well as square tubing from the B pillars around the door striker area to the A pillars in the middle of where the door hinges attach. You could tack a brace across the upper rear seat pan as well.
If I was doing this, I’d have at minimum 2 braces in the floor area to help resist twisting when you lift it if you’re doing that by yourself.

If you can’t get the lengths you need to span those gaps, check out Metal Supermarkets in Pittsburgh north. You’ll have to call in to order though.
 
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From every article or thread I’ve seen, the most common bracing seems to be a 1 inch square tube from the top of the inner sills(if that’s what they’re called), typically in the middle of the floor. As well as square tubing from the B pillars around the door striker area to the A pillars in the middle of where the door hinges attach. You could tack a brace across the upper rear seat pan as well.
If I was doing this, I’d have at minimum 2 braces in the floor area to help resist twisting when you lift it if you’re doing that by yourself.

If you can’t get the lengths you need to span those gaps, check out Metal Supermarkets in Pittsburgh north. You’ll have to call in to order though.

What do you mean by the top of the upper sills? I was thinking something like 2 1" square tubes from the area under the windshield to the area above the rear seat/under the rear window. But i think I'll need more than that.

I've bought from Metal Supermarkets before, they were awesome. I needed some 3×3x1/4" angle iron to make a frame brace for my truck and they had it in stock and cheap.
 
Do you recall what the name of the thread was?

 
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