L31 into an '86 Regal Limited V8

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nova_rookie said:
From what I understand, this is what I need:
L31:
1. +12V from battery
2. +12V during Start & Run
a. +12V to fuel pump during Start & Run
b.
3. Signals for Tach, water temp, oil pressure, & VSS from trans to come from their respective sensors > through the L31's underhood fuse block > then through the fire either INTO the Regal's fuse box or bypass it > then to the dash (Dakota Digital)

Regal:
1. Leave it be as much as possible since it will only be controlling things like wipers, lights, horn, radio, maybe a/c, maybe cruise control.

Sound about right?


Yes, you are on the right track. Go back to the diagram I posted on Feb 13. Using the numbering system from above:
1) +12V from the battery is shown on the left hand side of the diagram, note the battery supplies PCM directly, orange wire ckt 440; the other ckt shown DLC ckt 840 is to the connector where they hook up the device when they inspect your vehicle
2) +12V during Start & Run. You need a fair amount of amperage so you dont want to get this from your Regal harness, instead you want the Regal system to send a signal that the ignition switch is in Start & Run. Look at the top most relay labeled PCM RLY. The Regal signal (most likely the +12V to the original coil) is attached to 86 of the relay. When the signal comes from Regal to 86 the circuit is complete to ground through 85. This energizes a coil in the relay which closes the contacts and the circuit is closed between 30 and 87, current is then made available to the loads downstream of 87. The reason that the relay is desirable is that the load on the Regal harness is less than 1 amp (current from 86 to 85) whereas the current through 30 and 87 is limited by the rating of the relay, typically 30 to 40 amps. In actuality, I found about 60 amps were needed so I used two relays and broke up the loads between them.
a) for the fuel pump, the signal to energize the pump comes from the computer, for my vehicle it is a dark green wire coming from computer connector 4, pin 1. The relay works the same as described above.

As for the instruments, the wires do not run through either fuse box, the wires run directly from the sensor or computer to the gauge.
1) run the tach wire in the L31 directly to the gauge
2) water temp- the Dakota digital system probably came with its own sensor (or told you what to buy). You will need to install the sensor and run a wire from the sensor to your gauge.
3) oil press- same as water temp, use sensor supplied by Dakota digital; the L31 has two oil pressure sensors-- one for the gauge and the second keeps the fuel pump running after the engine starts. I will provide a diagram to show you that circuit.
3) VSS run from computer to your gauge, again does not go through either fuse box; you need to ensure that the computer signal is compatible with Dakota digital, should be

If you took the cruise control unit off the L31, then you will want disconnect all the Regal wiring and use the L31 computer to operate the L31 cruise control module. You will have to run the wire from the L31 system to your old Regal cruise control switch.

I also used the L31 crank start circuit. I'll provide a diagram for that circuit, too.

Mike
OK, I got really busy with work, but I'm back on it.

I had it towed to a shop that said that they could finish it, but I haven't seen hardly any progress and they've had it for over a month.

I'm losing/lost patience and faith in them.

They got the engine in and the headers bolted up, but bent my fuel lines and broke my distributor cap & a/c box. Smh

I want to get all the lines ran today. I went to Summit last night and bought the adapters for the Dakota Digital oil pressure sensor & water temp sensor to fit. I also bought a fuel pump (in tank) that I want to install onto the sending unit...should I use my existing sending unit or get a junk yard one off of a 4.3L fuel injected G-body?

By the way, Summit Racing has a huge scratch & dent sale. Their clearance area is overflowing with all kinda stuff!

Today I want to get these sensors installed, get them to replace the stuff they broke, and get all my lines ran (fuel, trans, radiator.
 
Also, the a/c compressor sits too high for the hood to close, even without the hose connected.

Is there a different bracket I can use to lower it?
 
Have you tried the pre-Vortec accessory drive? It will fit under a G-Body hood, I have it in my '78. It's the 2-piece aluminum brackets, a/c on passenger side.
IMAG0737.jpg
 
Doober said:
Have you tried the pre-Vortec accessory drive? It will fit under a G-Body hood, I have it in my '78. It's the 2-piece aluminum brackets, a/c on passenger side.
IMAG0737.jpg

1st... NICE CAR!
2nd...I like that color!
3rd.... what were we talkin about again?

Oh ya, what vehicle should I be looking to get the "pre-vortec accessory drive" from?

Also, what say you about the sending unit and fuel pump? What car should I be looking to get the sending unit from and/or should I just buy a new sending unit without the fuel pump for an '87 4.3L Monte Carlo and install the pump I just bought from Summit on it?
 
Monte Carlo sounds right, you can also look under turbo 3.8 Regal... though I think they all had the same tank, depending on carb or efi (baffling for in-tank pumps).

The accessory drive I have is from a 4.3/5.0/5.7 TBI full size truck, or TBI 4.3 S-Series truck. Pre-Vortec is '95 and older.

Gas tank:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframe ... ttype=6268

Sending unit:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframe ... ttype=4436

Pump (stock Vortec pump):
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframe ... ttype=6256

I would double up on fuel injection clamps on the sending unit, use only a short section of fuel injection hose, and run as much hardline as possible.
 
Monte Carlo sounds right, you can also look under turbo 3.8 Regal... though I think they all had the same tank, depending on carb or efi (baffling for in-tank pumps).

The accessory drive I have is from a 4.3/5.0/5.7 TBI full size truck, or TBI 4.3 S-Series truck. Pre-Vortec is '95 and older.

Gas tank:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframe ... ttype=6268

Sending unit:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframe ... ttype=4436

Pump (stock Vortec pump):
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframe ... ttype=6256

I would double up on fuel injection clamps on the sending unit, use only a short section of fuel injection hose, and run as much hardline as possible.

On that accessory drive, what brackets will I be looking for and how many? Anything else I need besides the actual brackets and bolts?

Also, I'm just gonna see about getting a sending unit & pump combo that's stock for the truck and see if it will fit in the gas tank I already have.
 
Ok, I'm at Pull-A-Part now looking for a sending unit from a 4.3L V6 fuel injected gbody, anyone know what all vehicles they came on?

This is a list I got from searching Gastanks.com:
86 Bonneville
86-87 Grand Prix
85-88 Monte Carlo

I know the Bonneville is not a Gbody, but it uses the same gas tank on cars with that same engine.

I'm also getting a throttle cable from the same kind of donor truck, an ALL connector, and looking for the accessory brackets from a throttle body (truck?)

I need to know what all years & models to look for the throttle body accessory brackets. Can anyone help me with that?
 
What mounts did you use on the block? Judging by the pictures on the first page you have the truck mounts. If that's the case it could be a reason the AC won't clear the hood. The pre Vortec accessory drive mounts the AC on the passenger side(same as the 307) of engine and I'm pretty sure it's at the same height as the vortec. It consists of 2 aluminum brackets very similar to what you already have but the AC and ALT are swapped. I'm not sure exactly what years have the bracket but I know my 91 and 92 chevy trucks had it, I'm fairly certain 93 had it and 94 should as well. 90 I'm not sure of. 89 had a steel bracket.

With all that said until I put my hood on I wasn't sure my ALT would clear with the truck brackets, but it did.
 
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