Led lighting ??

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GP403

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Feb 25, 2005
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Rolla, MO
The tail light sockets were full of some sticky clay like stuff. Not sure what it was. And the new led buld didnt work untill i cleaned them out. Ive have 4 new sockets to replace them with. Maybe when i wire in the new sockets i will wire a dedicated ground wire in aswell
that's funny bc I ran into that too. its a grease/paste that helps the bulbs stick in place.
 

fleming442

Captain Tenneal
Dec 26, 2013
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I thought it was just cooked diabolical grease. Brakleen, scotch brite, and new grease....
The parking lights are pulling ground from the turn indicators. I bet if you pull the indicator bulbs, the parking lights go out.
 
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bertscova

Greasemonkey
Jun 27, 2015
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Now y'all have got me thinking. I installed this guage cluster before the led swap. The lights all worked fine until i did the led swap. But my speedometer isnt working. Ive put a meter on the wires going to and from the speed sensor and am getting power to it and signal coming from it. So im thinking its a ground issue with the cluster wiring harness. Could be causing both problems
 

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jlcustomz

G-Body Guru
Nov 22, 2011
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I had lit signal indicators with led bulbs, different flasher didn't help, sockets all clean. Did later find out I still had standard bulbs in my rear side markers , pulling them relieved problem for me having all led bulbs front to rear.

I do need some blue led bulbs for my silver autometer ultralites though. Those standard bulbs from 2002' with the blue caps on them SUCK. My lazy *ss still never pulled one out to see what size bulb i need.:blam: My refrigerator has prettier lighting than my gauges, that's just wrong.
I'm not a wiring expert, but I learned sometimes setting up an extra ground on some stuff helps. Have a couple of minor issues with my autometers. Water temp jumps up slightly when turning on lights. Speedometer needle has suddenly stopped working or stuck at like 40 mph for a while till restart, trip meter still running though. I might want a 2nd ground to cluster just for the heck of it.
 
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pagrunt

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Sep 14, 2014
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Elderton, Pa
I'll toss my theory in on this. The cause may be the way the front sidemarkers circuits are wired in. They really don't have a direct ground, just a hot lead for the marker light function (brown wire) & hot lead for the turn signal (lt. blue left, dk. blue right). When just being marker light the blue wires act as the gound, just turn signals the brown acts as the ground. With both fuctions the light in a way has a grounding short even with the flasher fuse doing its job. From the somewhat grounding short of the sidemarker bulbs could be the ground completing the curcuit to cause the dash bulbs to stay on while the lights are on. Remember I'm putting this out as a theory not as a proven fact. I'm not a wire expert but I can play one on TV.
 
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jlcustomz

G-Body Guru
Nov 22, 2011
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Come to think of it , I was doing a rewire to the 2016 camaro parts up front & 2016 vette parts out back when my lit indicators went away. So it could be the actual sidemarker wiring. Pulling the sidemarker bulbs would let you know as it would incomplete the circuit.
 

g9s8r

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Feb 25, 2018
30
19
8
I am not a voltage person or into wiring to understand every car and its functions and dynamics of all of it. I can only say that each car has its own issues that has to be trial and error to be remedied. Dont put off some of the simple things unless you have tried it...as in just turning 180 for polarity or cleaning a contact or bending a wire for contact.

disclaimer, my story, dont have to read:
I bought LEDs for my 84 Regal and I was running into issues with them operating properly as well. With the lights off, all the lights worked fine. It wasn't until I drove at nighttime and tried to use my turn signal and it just stayed lit....but it was ONLY the drivers side. I installed the resistors thinking that would help, even though I didn't get any hyperflash. They made no difference whatsoever. I got kind of pissed knowing the website said I needed them but I dont. What a waste of money. Anyhow, I read a bunch online trying to find a solution, which in an "old" car wasn't easy to find due to the lack of people doing it. I ended up buying an electronic flasher at the local auto parts and it helped a little but didnt fix my problem. I was kind of stumped and was about to give up. I hit the internet again and kept looking for other solutions. I even went as far as turning the bulbs 180 just in case the polarity made a difference. NOPE. I ended up buying a different flasher with a ground and low and behold all my signals and lights work. Granted, drivers side is still a little slower than it should but I'll take it.
My understanding is that no single older car, G Body is in that category too, has a single remedy when it comes to the newer LED lighting in the vehicles. So, DON'T give up if its what you really want to have in your vehicle. It might be frustrating but, troubleshoot everything one by one with the cheapest thing first (FREE) to replacing, or adding things (flashers, resistors, new wiring) until you find a solution and then share with others.
Not saying this is or will help but, this is what I used for mine.:
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335822911&icep_item=401773311870
 

YungFlip43

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jul 16, 2018
35
16
8
i don't like the idea of load resistors as i went led to try to save my wire harness as i have no faith in old wire harness and the less strain i can put on it the better. mine just needed one led flasher. every bulb in the car is led inside and out and has the digitalis led tail light panels.

where is the flasher location? iKeep seeing confusion on it. I've seen where is supposed to be on lower fuse blocc, but it doesn't look right and my lights work.
 
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