No It makes sense, I guess I’d like to see the car run around 450-500hp so not sure what that’ll take but I think I’ll put in about 5-7k into engine bay I hope that’s enough if I buy used.
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You said the car had no drivetrain when you found it. The VIN information will not be relevant if you have the freedom of no emission testing in your region and can put anything you want under the hood.
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I’m from Alberta, Canada, so there is no limit to what I can put under the hood.
"Cheap and easy"
"Bolt in and go"
Y'all are killing me!!!!!!
"Bolt in and go"
Y'all are killing me!!!!!!
Come on now, it IS cheaper and easier than a Flux capacitor. And no Libyans to boot."Cheap and easy"
"Bolt in and go"
Y'all are killing me!!!!!!
It's also bolt in and go... they bolt them in, and we go - right to the next car at every car show, and/or right on past them in every race
"Cheap and easy"
"Bolt in and go"
Y'all are killing me!!!!!!
He's in the early planning stages i.e. not far enough along to realize the true scope of what he's about to undertake. Reality will eventually set in but for now yes, cheap easy bolt in and go.
An LS swap will be double that even with used parts. Modern stuff is not cheap and especially snowball due to their complexity. For 400 to 500 HP, the frame and body will require reinforcing besides brake and rear axle upgrading. G bodies are not built to handle that much power.
Yes I know it’s going to be a challenge, my saving grace is my good friend is a mechanic who has done a ton of rebuilds on vast array of vehicles. I’ll be able to get parts for cost and labour is 25$hr with my helping. I’m just trying to get a game plan so I can purchase all the parts before hand, lay them all out, hopefully write out a plan of attack in chronological order and begin to build this beast as a tribute to my late grandparents.
I might go as far as to find another Gbody and try to trade for certified gemstones. I wouldn’t mind having a 2 door instead. 🤷♂️
If you buy parts at 'shop cost' versus scrounging closeout, overstock, and pull-a-part sales you'll pay triple, quadruple, or more what the average board member does. Garages pay $80/set (but charge lemmings $125) for the same accel plug and wires we buy for 25 cents/plug and $8/set wires.
The real issue with a ls type swap is unless you custom build your own harnesses, and weld/fab custom mounts, etc yourself, there's isn't a big "shop discount" on those parts the way there is doing an oil change or brake job. Even then, the savvy hobbiest pays 1/3 or less what a shop does - shops get negotiated price, flat, and don't call 40 vendors, hunt closeouts, and horsetrade swap meets.
I've seen basebones 5.3s pulled from wrecked impound trucks swapped in for less than $2k. And they run like it. Work, yes, done "right"? Not so much. I'd be surprised if they worked 6 or even 3 months later without issues
Not saying you can't do it, but, buy your own parts (cheaper in the long run), make a budget (then triple it), and, word to the wise.... friends and business generally don't mix. Inevitably things come up if the 'partnership' goes on too long that leave bad feelings. Or worse.
What if he buys a new house halfway through your project and doesn't have time? What if he expects you to drop what you want to do for side work for him at a cut rate and you cant/don't want to? What about when the guy who isn't a wiring guru and you are working together and the car catches fire? Whose fault is it, and, who pays? Who pays for tools that break during work? What if you're in assembly, something slip, smashes his hand, and he's out of work for 6 months and in therapy?
I learned long ago, and many times over, it's all well and good to bs over cars with friends, but, don't participate in something you won't accept 100% of the loss for.
Made some good points there. I will take your advice and start collecting parts I need from the wreckers and used parts outlets once I decide which motor to put in. Thanks for your help
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