Looking for some help

[Longroof79]

Batteries can crap out on you with little to no warning. Age doesn't mean squat these days. I've had batteries that lasted 2-yrs and some that lasted 10. It's the pick of the draw.,,,and luck, of course.
I've found at times, the battery could indicate a full 12.5-13 volts, but as Steve suggested, it could have a bad cell.

 

[airboatgreg]

Lots of could be's.
It sounds like 2 issues.
1 Quits going down road. First thought a faulty ignition module
2 Won't crank. Battery?, draw, starter
One thing in common that could cause both is connections at the battery and starter. I know you said they were fine but did you disconnect each battery terminal and look at the connection for corrosion? Is the insulation encapsulating the terminal end and cable swollen?(internal corrosion) Did you go to the starter and physically make sure the connection is tight?
This is where I would start

 

[Wildmani]

Sounds like it has a bad cell. Depending what brand it is it should be under warranty

Guess I’ll get the battery tested as well. Alternator or battery would be the easiest fixes

 

[Wildmani]

Lots of could be's.
It sounds like 2 issues.
1 Quits going down road. First thought a faulty ignition module
2 Won't crank. Battery?, draw, starter
One thing in common that could cause both is connections at the battery and starter. I know you said they were fine but did you disconnect each battery terminal and look at the connection for corrosion? Is the insulation encapsulating the terminal end and cable swollen?(internal corrosion) Did you go to the starter and physically make sure the connection is tight?
This is where I would start

Connections to the starter are all tight. Battery cables look ok too. I’ll have another look in the morning and maybe put the battery on the charger

 

[Bonnewagon]

I agree - module. Is it original? Probably overdue. If replaced was the heat-sink grease applied under it? I think the battery is a separate issue- not uncommon on old cars. Charge fully and give it a load test. If it has caps a hydrometer test is best. Another cause could be vapor lock. Is the fuel pump the 3 fitting kind? With the return line to the gas tank? If not, the 2 fitting kind are susceptible to random vapor lock shut down. When it cools off it restarts.

 

[Wildmani]

I agree - module. Is it original? Probably overdue. If replaced was the heat-sink grease applied under it? I think the battery is a separate issue- not uncommon on old cars. Charge fully and give it a load test. If it has caps a hydrometer test is best. Another cause could be vapor lock. Is the fuel pump the 3 fitting kind? With the return line to the gas tank? If not, the 2 fitting kind are susceptible to random vapor lock shut down. When it cools off it restarts.

Module is fairly new. I’ll charge the battery tomorrow and check it out, I just figured everything would be a connected issue. It’s the 2 fitting style pump, but I figured something electrical because it never sputtered or anything just shut off like the key got turned off. It did fire up after sitting for a while before the battery being dead

 

[Bonnewagon]

It’s the 2 fitting style pump,

Does it have AC and has it been sweltering by you lately? The fuel line runs close to hot parts and AC makes it worse. If a gas bubble occurs in the fuel line then no liquid gas can pass until it cools off. The factory used the 3 fitting pump to send excess gas back to the tank so a supply of cool fresh gas was always there at the carb. On the 2 fitting pump the gas just sits there and gets hot. I had an old VW Beetle and this was a constant problem. Wrapping the fuel line with tin foil helped a bit. Dumping the Bug fixed it for good. Did you put the grease under the module? It is critical.

 

[Wildmani]

Does it have AC and has it been sweltering by you lately? The fuel line runs close to hot parts and AC makes it worse. If a gas bubble occurs in the fuel line then no liquid gas can pass until it cools off. The factory used the 3 fitting pump to send excess gas back to the tank so a supply of cool fresh gas was always there at the carb. On the 2 fitting pump the gas just sits there and gets hot. I had an old VW Beetle and this was a constant problem. Wrapping the fuel line with tin foil helped a bit. Dumping the Bug fixed it for good. Did you put the grease under the module? It is critical.

No AC in the car. As far as the module goes, I had it to a shop to get tuned last year when I first got it on the road and they replaced the distributor and everything on it so I can’t say for certain about the grease. I know when I did it originally I greased it but due to the distributor change I guess that’s irrelevant lol

 

[pontiacgp]

I re-read your first post, it doesn't sound like the battery is the problem since you can turn over the engine after it dies. Plus if it was the battery your alternator will run the engine if the battery dies with the engine running. Even though you have new components in the distributor I make sure the connections on the module are tight and would test the coil, if that tests good then I try a new module .

 

[Wildmani]

I re-read your first post, it doesn't sound like the battery is the problem since you can turn over the engine after it dies. Plus if it was the battery your alternator will run the engine if the battery dies with the engine running. Even though you have new components in the distributor I make sure the connections on the module are tight and would test the coil, if that tests good then I try a new module .

I’ve got the battery on charge now. Have to take my dad to an appointment this afternoon so likely won’t get to it until this evening. I already replaced the coil so I’m going to assume that’s not it but might just go ahead and replace the module and see what happens.