If a module is bad it can overheat or something causes it to overheat the car will shut down and when the module cools it resets letting you restart the engine.
If a module is bad it can overheat or something causes it to overheat the car will shut down and when the module cools it resets letting you restart the engine.
Fully charged the battery and replaced the module. Let it idle for quite a while and then took to the road. Around the block a few times and then a little further. Seems to be working but I’m still a bit skeptical about going too far just yet. Last time it went fine until I went to a buddies place, then on the way home it crapped out. Time will tell I guess
Sounds good. Did you test the battery and alternator? A sealed one can only be load tested but one with caps can be hydrometer tested. A so-so cell or two can really drive you nuts. That is why a Milton battery tester is such a great tool, it puts a load on the battery and sees if the alternator can handle it.
When we were teenagers, a friend had a 71 Chevelle that had the exact same problem!Had a similar issue 30 yrs ago, the car would cut-out going around (mostly) right corners, some straightaways. But would immediately start back up
popped the hood, was looking at the battery sitting loose in the tray area, noticed some scorch marks on the fender next to the terminal .......... the lightbulb goes on.....
yep, battery was sitting loose and would slide into fender causing an immediate short.
in your case, check surrounding sheetmetal and hood. also check ground cables. CYA....
I feel the same way about brake jobs!I’m still a bit skeptical about going too far just yet
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