and if I change my upper ball joints can I just change the ball joint and put a taller one in the original upper control arm or do I need aftermarket upper control arms1" tall
and if I change my upper ball joints can I just change the ball joint and put a taller one in the original upper control arm or do I need aftermarket upper control arms1" tall
You'll need shorter upper arms if going the tall BJ (or tall spindle) swap. Dialing in alignment will be a possible issue w/o them & the Camber curve might put things in a bind. This is one of those scenarios where one change requires other changes for everything to play together nicely.and if I change my upper ball joints can I just change the ball joint and put a taller one in the original upper control arm or do I need aftermarket upper control arms
Im interested in the drop spindles if youre willing to get rid of them now. PM me if so?Last year I removed S-10 drop spindle from my T-type Regal and went to Lowering Springs in the front instead. It drives SO MUCH BETTER now. I would never go back to those things.
I've done multiple vehicles using dropped spindles & haven't had a single issue w/them impacting the driving experience.Last year I removed S-10 drop spindle from my T-type Regal and went to Lowering Springs in the front instead. It drives SO MUCH BETTER now. I would never go back to those things.
I don't know why they were an issue. Had the car aligned multiple times, but that didn't help. There were multiple issues with the spindles. Going over bumps one of the tires was always hitting the wheel well.... even after changing all the body bushings and shocks. Also, steering wasn't right. The wheel wouldn't 100% return to center after a turn. (Again, alignment and changing out the steering box didn't help). All problems went away after replacing the spindles for lowering springs.I've done multiple vehicles using dropped spindles & haven't had a single issue w/them impacting the driving experience.
If the alignment is correct, there should be zero issues as far as drivability. Interference can be an issue w/dropped spindles. That can also be eliminated (or minimized) w/due diligence.
I don't know why they were an issue. Had the car aligned multiple times, but that didn't help. There were multiple issues with the spindles. Going over bumps one of the tires was always hitting the wheel well.... even after changing all the body bushings and shocks. Also, steering wasn't right. The wheel wouldn't 100% return to center after a turn. (Again, alignment and changing out the steering box didn't help). All problems went away after replacing the spindles for lowering springs.
While this is adding some detail regarding what you were dealing with.... It's not specifics.I don't know why they were an issue. Had the car aligned multiple times, but that didn't help. There were multiple issues with the spindles. Going over bumps one of the tires was always hitting the wheel well.... even after changing all the body bushings and shocks. Also, steering wasn't right. The wheel wouldn't 100% return to center after a turn. (Again, alignment and changing out the steering box didn't help). All problems went away after replacing the spindles for lowering springs.
What size/how tall were the tires? Same wheels & tires from start to finish?Going over bumps one of the tires was always hitting the wheel well.... even after changing all the body bushings and shocks
Had the car aligned multiple times, but that didn't help
Also, steering wasn't right. The wheel wouldn't 100% return to center after a turn. (Again, alignment and changing out the steering box didn't help)
So you just ran drop springs? Have you ran into any issues?Last year I removed S-10 drop spindle from my T-type Regal and went to Lowering Springs in the front instead. It drives SO MUCH BETTER now. I would never go back to those things.
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