LQ9 intake swap

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csstrux

Greasemonkey
Apr 5, 2017
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We fabbed up new frame stands for the motor mounts (old style, not the clamshell) for an LQ4, so I may not be positioned exactly where you are, but an auto sized pully on the truck pump will clear the rails. I think I got mine off a grand am. A bit of modification to the AC bracket got it in the car as well. Retaining the truck style intake for now as it is a better flowing unit than the auto, and so far it looks like it should clear the hood without any cutting.
 

Turbolq4

Royal Smart Person
Sep 25, 2017
1,732
4,207
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Nampa Idaho
I have the stock truck pulley and accessories on my 5.3 and it doesn't hit the power steering pump. I have the stock small block clamshells. I bolted the lowers to the engine side, position to my liking, weld lowers to frame. Could drill new holes if you like.
 
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motorheadmike

Geezer
Nov 18, 2009
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Pulley diameter and steering box style are the issues. Engine set back can help.
 

81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,649
13,565
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Western MN
I talked to a representative at LSBrackets.com And he said that a truck motor in a gbody won’t fit unless you buy a relocation bracket for the power steering pump or it will hit the gearbox. Is this not true?

I think I’m just going to run a nice painted vortec cover . I’m going to keep the truck intake for now, but I just want to make sure the motor fits without issues when I’m ready to drop it in. I want to make sure I won’t have the motor interfering with anything during the install.

I call BS unless that kit used mounts that moves the engine like 2" forward of where I, and everyone else I have seen puts it. I have a solid inch between the pulley and steering box on mine.

My install method was keep the trans in place (stock 2004R), bolt 6.0 with truck pan to trans, measure crank bolt pulley centerline to both frame rails, put a block between the oil pan and steering system to level it out, lowered engine down to put a few lbs onto the tie rods and level the engine side to side, put plates i made on block and ears on stock SBC frame mounts, bolted ears on, welded gap inbetween.

I did have the rearmost coil bracket on the valve cover pop a small hole in the AC box.
 

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mobileaudio25

G-Body Guru
Jan 12, 2012
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columbus, ohio
We fabbed up new frame stands for the motor mounts (old style, not the clamshell) for an LQ4, so I may not be positioned exactly where you are, but an auto sized pully on the truck pump will clear the rails. I think I got mine off a grand am. A bit of modification to the AC bracket got it in the car as well. Retaining the truck style intake for now as it is a better flowing unit than the auto, and so far it looks like it should clear the hood without any cutting.

What vehicle are you putting it in?
I have a 3 in hood scoop, and also I don’t plan on running ac. Nice to know you were able to modify it to clear.

All you did on your lq4/LQ9 motor was change the pulley on the PS pump and it cleared the steering gear box?
 

csstrux

Greasemonkey
Apr 5, 2017
143
76
28
I have an 82 Cutlass. So far it looks like the hood will clear, but the entire clip is off, so I could be wrong. We used old style motor mounts ( I think pre 64?) I know they are the same as I had on my 63 Impala, but am not certain when Chevy stopped using them. Those were mounted on hand fabbed stands. That was actually done while I was still in OK. The car is in WI at my fathers house. I had it shipped there as he has a fully equipped shop, and I have a sand pit, and he seems to have gotten bored before I got there. If you are on Facebook, there is a page, LS-G-body tech. Tons of info and pics of what others did along with parts lists for successful installs. All I needed for the PS was the smaller pully, and we nibbed a chunk of the AC bracket out to clear the frame stand. The pump was in it, and tight, but looked like the lines will clear. Not in currently tho. Pic shows the results so far.
20171020_142150.jpg
 
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