I can't say I don't feel the pain, my G body is way behind schedule as well. Its acquisition was ill timed, but unavoidable.
LT1 swap update - split loom install
- Thread starter JD1964
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I can't say I don't feel the pain, my G body is way behind schedule as well. Its acquisition was ill timed, but unavoidable.
Im working on the final wiring layout and I’m using the power leads with fusible links that came from the 94 z28.
I’ve got 2 links that are 1.0 sq mm and 4 links that are 2.0 sq mm. What are the ratings of these?
I need to feed the fuse box + leads at the firewall (2 leads). These were fed from the starter on the Malibu original wiring I believe, but I want to feed them from the terminal block I installed near the battery on the fender well.
I’ll route them across the radiator support and up the left fender well to the C100 at the firewall. Will the 1.0 sq mm fusible links (two of them, one for each + at C100) have sufficient capacity to serve the fuse panel under the dash?
I’ll have the engine cooling fans, fuel pump and HVAC circuits individually powered and fed through the 2.0 sq mm links so the majority of electrical demand will not be on the fuse panel under the dash anyway.
Does this plan seem ok or do I need bigger than two 1.0 sq mm fusible links to the back of the fuse box at firewall C100?
I’ve got 2 links that are 1.0 sq mm and 4 links that are 2.0 sq mm. What are the ratings of these?
I need to feed the fuse box + leads at the firewall (2 leads). These were fed from the starter on the Malibu original wiring I believe, but I want to feed them from the terminal block I installed near the battery on the fender well.
I’ll route them across the radiator support and up the left fender well to the C100 at the firewall. Will the 1.0 sq mm fusible links (two of them, one for each + at C100) have sufficient capacity to serve the fuse panel under the dash?
I’ll have the engine cooling fans, fuel pump and HVAC circuits individually powered and fed through the 2.0 sq mm links so the majority of electrical demand will not be on the fuse panel under the dash anyway.
Does this plan seem ok or do I need bigger than two 1.0 sq mm fusible links to the back of the fuse box at firewall C100?
I installed a little orange LED in the radio bezel for use as the MIL (check engine) light.
The car will run a triple aftermarket gauge set with mechanical oil pressure , mechanical water temp and voltage.
I’m also utilizing the factory idiot lights in the cluster. Oil will be triggered by the factory LT1 low oil sensor. Temp will be triggered by an additional sensor in the water pump where the oil cooler line was removed. My fan control settings are 198 low speed and 210 high speed. The idiot light sensor for temp has a 235 degree trigger. The gen idiot light will be wired to come on if the alternator output drops out.
The car will run a triple aftermarket gauge set with mechanical oil pressure , mechanical water temp and voltage.
I’m also utilizing the factory idiot lights in the cluster. Oil will be triggered by the factory LT1 low oil sensor. Temp will be triggered by an additional sensor in the water pump where the oil cooler line was removed. My fan control settings are 198 low speed and 210 high speed. The idiot light sensor for temp has a 235 degree trigger. The gen idiot light will be wired to come on if the alternator output drops out.
Diagnostic port mounted under radio facing passenger side so a short cable will reach the Lenovo mini tablet. I sniped the tablet on eBay for $30. We’ll be running ALDLdroid to stream data from the PCM. We mainly wanted this for speedometer purpose but can also get all the other data from the PCM including data logger capabilities. The Lenovo is mounted with a Scosche vent mounted swivel with magnetic strip that holds the tablet. The old school Autometer tach has served us well for many years in multiple vehicles and will stay in service in this car.
Idiot light sensor for coolant came in. 235 degree trigger point. Looks like decent quality
It’s a Holley 52mm tb, elbow from a 94 Fleetwood and a cold air kit from a 94 Z28. All this stuff was nabbed in the boneyard for about $60. I cut a hole in front of the front wheel to get the filter outside of the engine compartment. I’ll need to make some splash guards in case we get caught driving in heavy rain.
The ignition control modules on these LT1 engines are know to fail from overheating. I made spacers to move it off of the hot cylinder head creating and air gap and added a supplemental copper heat sink. Here’s a few pics.
Good stuff but. . . I put an Ac Delco module in my Camaro back in 2015 and, knock on wood, good to go still. I used the schmoo they gave me in the package. I suspect a lot of the bad rap these motors get is from garbage aftermarket replacement parts. GM used 3 different ICMs and 2 different coils across the span of the LT1. I bet O Reilly's lists 1 ICM to rule them all if I had to guess. I intend to 411 swap mine this winter along with a 4X reluctor setup. That will free me from Opti failures, the distributor will be nothing more than that.
I have a question about alternator wiring. I have a smaller version of the 140 amp alt that came on the z28. It is still a CS style alternator but its smaller in dimensioins to fit where I need it to. The harness connections are the same as the Z28 alternator. I want to use the factory idiot light on the dash i
in the Malibu to give me heads up if the alternator stops charging.
Here is the alternator I have >
Look at the attached pic and you'll see how I have it wired up. Is this correct to light the idiot light if the alt fails to put out?
Should the gen light come on with key on engine off, or only light up with engine running and alternator failure?
in the Malibu to give me heads up if the alternator stops charging.
Here is the alternator I have >
Amazon.com: DB Electrical ADR0119 Alternator Compatible With/Replacement For Chevy Gmc 4.3L V6 5.7L V8 105 Amp 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 Chevy Blazer Suburban Pickup Truck 87 88 P Van: Automotive
Buy DB Electrical ADR0119 Alternator Compatible With/Replacement For Chevy Gmc 4.3L V6 5.7L V8 105 Amp 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 Chevy Blazer Suburban Pickup Truck 87 88 P Van: Alternators - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
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Look at the attached pic and you'll see how I have it wired up. Is this correct to light the idiot light if the alt fails to put out?
Should the gen light come on with key on engine off, or only light up with engine running and alternator failure?
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