LT1 swap update - split loom install

[JD1964]

Don't quote me, but I think the light should come on in both scenarios.

I thought so too. However I get no idiot light with key on engine off. The idiot light circuit is good because when i ground the wire with the key on, the idiot light comes on. And, when i turn the key on, the wire has a voltage signal that would excite the regulator like it should. I have not tested with engine running because there are other things to be finished before starting the engine.

I can live with no idiot light illumination with key on engine off, but Im trying to make sure it will in fact illuminate with engine running and alternator failure.

 

[JD1964]

I guess I could just go with it for now. Then when I get the engine running check for proper charging first. Then, remove the belt to simulate alternator loss of output, start engine and see if the idiot light comes on.

 

[JD1964]

Also, on the heater control valve I plan to install, do I have to maintain a loop through the heater hoses when the valve is closed? Or is it ok to just stop the flow with a closed valve? I want to make sure I dont cause any hot spots in the engine by closing off the flow through the normal heater hose routing.

 

[5spdCab]

The ignition control modules on these LT1 engines are know to fail from overheating. I made spacers to move it off of the hot cylinder head creating and air gap and added a supplemental copper heat sink. Here’s a few pics. View attachment 180698View attachment 180699View attachment 180701

You need to patent, and refine that idea. That is something people are probably saying "why didn't someone think of this before?"

 

[JD1964]

You need to patent, and refine that idea. That is something people are probably saying "why didn't someone think of this before?"

I’ve seen other versions of the same idea. Spaced away from the head, remote mount on fender well and even a remote mount with additional heat sink.

I like to think I come up with good ideas but this one I borrowed. 🙂👍

 

[olds307 and 403]

Lt1/60e should make for a really good driver!

Until the 4L60E fails, yes they fail in these cars too. My BIL had a 95 Z28, the 4L60E sh*t the bed. Another issue that happened was the oil pump pickup tends to fall off. The tech at the dealer let this slip to my BIL who complained of a tick. It actually happened to his car under warranty! He made them do a free valve adjustment. He is a licensed mechanic, he was not pleased on this tidbit. He had 0 issues with the Optispark. GM had some shitty ignition ignition ideas. The small cap HEI also suffer from corrosion issues as well. Most of the rough running on TBI trucks were corroded blue cap and rotors.

 

[JD1964]

The 4L60e in this swap had been fully rebuilt before I got it. Low mileage since the rebuild. Seller of the car told us the dude who rebuilt it was familiar with weak points of this trans and did fixes during the job. When I pulled the engine and trans from the Z28 the transmission had initials of the mechanic and date of the rebuild on the side of the bell housing. I know that’s not full proof of any story but it at least supports the claim. We shall see

 

[Supercharged111]

Until the 4L60E fails, yes they fail in these cars too. My BIL had a 95 Z28, the 4L60E sh*t the bed. Another issue that happened was the oil pump pickup tends to fall off. The tech at the dealer let this slip to my BIL who complained of a tick. It actually happened to his car under warranty! He made them do a free valve adjustment. He is a licensed mechanic, he was not pleased on this tidbit. He had 0 issues with the Optispark. GM had some shitty ignition ignition ideas. The small cap HEI also suffer from corrosion issues as well. Most of the rough running on TBI trucks were corroded blue cap and rotors.

I had mine welded when I rebuilt it.

 

[DRIVEN]

I put a tack weld on all mine as well. Although I've never personally seen one just fall off.

 

[Supercharged111]

I put a tack weld on all mine as well. Although I've never personally seen one just fall off.

Mine didn't fall off, but I was able to twist it out of the still warm engine by hand. PO had JB Welded it in with the pickup pointing upward. I blame that for the death of the initial rotating assembly.