Lue's Build Thread

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jrm81bu

Comic Book Super Hero
Jul 9, 2008
3,000
64
48
Antwerp, OH
Is there anything protecting that rubber line from chaffing? I would try to protect that hose. Hope i',m not coming off too critical of your work, just would hate to see it leak and possibly start a fire. Keep th pics coming!
IMG01143-1.jpg
 

Lue

G-Body Guru
Nov 29, 2007
868
3
18
Los Angeles, california
jrm81bu said:
Is there anything protecting that rubber line from chaffing? I would try to protect that hose. Hope i',m not coming off too critical of your work, just would hate to see it leak and possibly start a fire. Keep th pics coming!

I never thought about that jrm81bu, and i can take feed back. This is my first time doing a swap, so it's more of a learning curve. But thanx for looking out!!!
 

Lue

G-Body Guru
Nov 29, 2007
868
3
18
Los Angeles, california
It's been while sense i postet,here ere is what i done so far.

The engine and transmission is in, headers, crossmember, and the rest of the fuel line.

IMG01157.jpg

IMG01158.jpg

IMG01173.jpg

IMG01174.jpg

IMG01175.jpg


Heres a few goodies that went along
IMG01092.jpg

IMG01089.jpg

IMG01091.jpg
 

350_85cutty

Master Mechanic
Sep 2, 2007
423
0
0
West, TX
looking good, hope the RTV caulking and plumbers putty works out for ya, i used some painters caulk on mine, bad idea, the heat from the engine makes it all gooey, shoulda known better, didn't even think about it. I used 3M undercoating on my heater box also, which i'll never use that stuff again, i used it on my frame and its not oil and gas resistant, stuff gets all gooey and wipes off when you go to clean it i had better luck with Dupli-color etch prime (the green stuff) then some dupli-color black spray paint, thats what i used to do my core support and frame the first time i swapped the 307 out, worked real good, took out the AC junk, you can see it in my build thread what i'm talking about, anyway, motor looks nice, I have a TCI sizzler 350 transmission and torque converter also, been wanting to get a set of those stage 8 header bolts. i did pretty much the same thing your doing not to long ago cleaning up the front end, getting it ready to drop the motor in
 

Lue

G-Body Guru
Nov 29, 2007
868
3
18
Los Angeles, california
350_85cutty said:
looking good, hope the RTV caulking and plumbers putty works out for ya, i used some painters caulk on mine, bad idea, the heat from the engine makes it all gooey, shoulda known better, didn't even think about it. I used 3M undercoating on my heater box also, which i'll never use that stuff again, i used it on my frame and its not oil and gas resistant, stuff gets all gooey and wipes off when you go to clean it i had better luck with Dupli-color etch prime (the green stuff) then some dupli-color black spray paint, thats what i used to do my core support and frame the first time i swapped the 307 out, worked real good, took out the AC junk, you can see it in my build thread what i'm talking about, anyway, motor looks nice, I have a TCI sizzler 350 transmission and torque converter also, been wanting to get a set of those stage 8 header bolts. i did pretty much the same thing your doing not to long ago cleaning up the front end, getting it ready to drop the motor in

Thanx 350_85cutty!!!! It should have been finish a few weeks back, but i keep putting in new parts. I also hope the RTV stuff works out. Before i got it, i read that it was rated at high heat temp. This is what it said;

("General-purpose, clear RTV indoor/outdoor sealant. Seals, bonds, repairs, mends and secures glass, metal, plastics, fabric, vinyl, weather stripping and vinyl tops. Protects and repairs electrical wiring. May be applied to horizontal or vertical surfaces. Waterproof and flexible. Temperature range -75°F to 400°F (-59°C to 204°C); resists oil, water, weather, vibration, grease. Suggested Applications: Windshields, door frames, electrical connections, vinyl tops, seams and roofs. This Permatex Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant is one of many top quality items in our Gasket Sealer department)
 

Lue

G-Body Guru
Nov 29, 2007
868
3
18
Los Angeles, california
Well, it's been a while sence I posted anything about my Bu. I have done a few things here and there when i get a chance, but works has been keeping me bussy. I want to drive and see my Bu on the road so bad that i can feel it!!!!!! :twisted: :twisted: , but I want to make sure i do this build right.

Sense my last post;
("The engine and transmission is in, headers, crossmember, and the rest of the fuel line as well.") I came across a slight delema. I wanted to replace my transmission lines fittings, cause they were a bit stripped. So I bought me a flaring tool from jgs, and the sucker broke lol. So now, I'm thinking about taking them to a transmission shop and have them do it for me...

jrm81bu, I haven't forgotten about the chaffing posibility on the fuel line. I was thinking of re-using some of the alum sheet metal that i cut of my core support and wrapp it around the line. What do you guys think?

I'm also in need of help wiring my engine. I had a buick 231 V6, with an elec choke. With a lil bit of help, i was able to track down where the alternator and starter wiring went to. But i'm kinda stuck with the choke part.

The way my v6 wire harnest is;
The choke connections has two wires. One coming directly from the firewall leading to the choke, then that same choke connector has a second wire leading to the oil temp sender, then to the starter.

Here is a picture of the 231 V6 passenger side where the oil temp sender is located. I also drew in red where the second wire coming of my choke would lead to the oil temp sender, then to the starter..

IMG01315-1.jpg


Should i wire my V8 the same way?

Sorry guys for all the questions :oops:
 

jrm81bu

Comic Book Super Hero
Jul 9, 2008
3,000
64
48
Antwerp, OH
As long as you can get rid of all the edges touching the fuel line it should be ok. There could be some rubbing on the blunt areas but if its secured pretty good it would take a long time to cause a problem. Keep an eye on any problem areas once you start driving it and you will see any rub marks then.
 

Lue

G-Body Guru
Nov 29, 2007
868
3
18
Los Angeles, california
jrm81bu said:
As long as you can get rid of all the edges touching the fuel line it should be ok. There could be some rubbing on the blunt areas but if its secured pretty good it would take a long time to cause a problem. Keep an eye on any problem areas once you start driving it and you will see any rub marks then.

Thanx for the tip jrm81bu!!!!
 

Lue

G-Body Guru
Nov 29, 2007
868
3
18
Los Angeles, california
Hi Everyone,

It’s been a while sense I worked on my Malibu, she’s been sitting on stands in the back yard of my parents home. She should have been on the road by now, but It’s been tough for me to find any time. My mom was diagnosed with cancer last year, and started getting really sick this year. She passed away on 9/28/09, and with my ex a month (8/15/09) before that. I had lost interest in everything.

Well it’s been a few month now, and with the thought of getting the Malibu on the road sitting on the back of my head. I have gotten my self together and time to get the Malibu on the road…
 
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