Manual steering rack

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It was far less a modification to keep the stock power steering than it would be to put a manual box into it. If it weren't for the fact that my barge weighs 3600+ pounds and has 245s on the front of it I might think about a quick ratio manual box. When I'm chasing the rear of the car around now I'm frenetically sawing away at the the wheel like a pimple faced teenager with a bitchin high speed internet connection. Probably a bad idea to add more turns lest it burst into flames.
 
I would say around 2,800-2,900lbs is the practical max weight limit for a "performance" car to have manual steering, unless it is more of a strictly straight line only deal. My Miatas are 2,400lbs and 50/50 weight distribution and I feels sometime I don't have the strength to save it quick enough if it snaps. Maybe if I put on an oversized bus steering wheel.... When NASCAR had manual steering they had huge steering wheel a sat only a foot from the wheel... and never really had to park it.

It just has to do with how much leverage a human can generate quickly. Caster makes a drag car more stable in a straight line, but it also make turning the wheel harder, so you need more leverage, and therefore even slower steering.

We had a manual steering 427 Cobra replica. The driveshaft was literally 1 foot long, so the weight distribution was 48 Front/52 rear. It had a 4 turn rack, which wasn't heavy and handled great, but sucked because you couldn't slalom the car without your hands and arms flailing all over. The only thing wrong with the car was it needed a 2.75 turn rack.

When you you are driving down the interstate and you see that frayed tire remnant in the road 100 feet ahead of you, you are going to run it over with a manual box. You can try to avoid it, but you won't.
 
If you would put your arrogance aside for a minute or two to look at the cars in this forum you would notice there is no leader and hardly anyone, including myself, has a G body that is even close to stock.

So Steve,are you trying to tell me that my Monte SS didnt come stock with the LS-6 454 Big Block and Doug Nash 5 speed ???
LOL 😆
Guy
 
When you you are driving down the interstate and you see that frayed tire remnant in the road 100 feet ahead of you, you are going to run it over with a manual box. You can try to avoid it, but you won't.
I will respectfully disagree with this. The 67 is manual steering, brakes (disc/drum), and transmission (with hydraulically assisted clutch 😵), and it's fairly responsive in the steering department....
 
Does anyone know the p/s gear box ratio that came on a standard G-body? Along with the ratio that would have come on an F41 equipped G-body?
 
I plan on doing a TRZ manual rack conversion on my MCSS... but I am also gutting the car.

Strong arm steering isn't that much of a deterrent for me.
 
Okay! So I am returning to my post after all this time. I do not want to go Manual Steering.... but at this time I am in a hard place with what the hell to do to make the power steering work in my Monte with Serpentine brackets and modern accessories. The Kwik Performance aluminum brackets that are made to adjust the spacing and clearances for the brackets to fit on the big block with small block accessories and brackets. This is what I've run into so far... I'll post the pictures. I am hitting on the left side of the bracket on the ear for the waterpump i just installed, and on the left side i have NO clearance for the power steering pump... you'll see in the pictures. Advice? Something other than a $1,500 March system. I understand why they get their money, but I am trying to see if there are any people that figured this out before I pick up plate 6061 Aluminum and CNC my own. Thanks!
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I will respectfully disagree with this. The 67 is manual steering, brakes (disc/drum), and transmission (with hydraulically assisted clutch 😵), and it's fairly responsive in the steering department....

But it still has to be at least 3.75 - 4 turns lock to lock. It can't be 3 or less turns and not be driven by a body builder.
 
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