BUILD THREAD Midlife Crisis Monte Carlo Build

After sandblasting and the internal frame coating I painted chassis saver on the areas I repaired and modified. The frame looks dull on the rest as I have been using scotchbrite pads on it so I can do a final paint with VHT chassis and roll bar epoxy in satin black.

New Frame Painted After Reparis And Modification (1).jpg
New Frame Painted After Reparis And Modification (2).jpg
New Frame Painted After Reparis And Modification (3).jpg
New Frame Painted After Reparis And Modification (4).jpg
New Frame Painted After Reparis And Modification (5).jpg
New Frame Painted After Reparis And Modification (6).jpg


Prepping the new frame for FINAL paint. So many scotchbrite pads, good thing there cheap. I pretty much have no fingerprints on my fingers anymore.


New Frame Prep For Final Paint (1).jpg
New Frame Prep For Final Paint (2).jpg
New Frame Prep For Final Paint (3).jpg
New Frame Prep For Final Paint (4).jpg
New Frame Prep For Final Paint (5).jpg
New Frame Prep For Final Paint (6).jpg
New Frame Prep For Final Paint (7).jpg
New Frame Prep For Final Paint (8).jpg
New Frame Prep For Final Paint (9).jpg
New Frame Prep For Final Paint (10).jpg
New Frame Prep For Final Paint (11).jpg
 
Time to assemble the new frame. I bought new upper and lower AC Delco front control arms. They seem to have the same part number as the Moog CK ones. The lowers are for an S10 which are the same dimensionally but the rear bushings have larger mounting holes. You can either drill out your frame to a larger hole or replace the rear bushings with G body ones. I replaced the bushings. Scuffed and painted in VHT chassis and roll bar epoxy to match the frame.

1.jpg
2.jpg
New Frame Assembly (1).jpg
New Frame Assembly (2).jpg
New Frame Assembly (3).jpg
New Frame Assembly (6).jpg
New Frame Assembly (7).jpg
New Frame Assembly (8).jpg
New Frame Assembly (9).jpg
New Frame Assembly (10).jpg


Moog 5660 springs were installed next, followed by 2000 Blazer 2wd front spindles and AC Delco backing plates that were sandblasted and painted in the same VHT paint. Raybestos hub bearings were installed lastly.

New Frame Assembly (11).jpg
New Frame Assembly (12).jpg
New Frame Assembly (13).jpg
New Frame Assembly (14).jpg
New Frame Assembly (16).jpg
New Frame Assembly (17).jpg
New Frame Assembly (18).jpg
New Frame Assembly (19).jpg
New Frame Assembly (20).jpg
New Frame Assembly (21).jpg
 
Now its time for a big decision. What rear end? I must have read for days on end on what would fit my needs and came to the conclusion that I want a Ford 8.8. There are many reasons for this but wont bore you with details. Now, from what car or truck? The logical one would be a Fox Body or SN95 mustang. The SN95 use the exact same housing as the Fox but have longer axles to compensate for the ABS.

With both, the need for an instant center kit has to be installed IMHO. They both need coil spring perches welded on and are a touch wider than the G Body rear end which I would want to narrow to 58" stock width. Fox has 4 lug, SN95 has 5 but wrong bolt pattern so I need axles. Both come with 28 spline axles and carrier so again, I need axles. I do have a 31 spline trak loc from an explorer. The lower trailing arm brackets on both of these are wider than the stock 2" 1/2 bushing width so lower trailing arms are in order as well or at least spacers.

How about the pre 1998 Crown Victoria/Mercury Grand Marquis rear end? It has the upper ears at the exact height of the G Body but slightly wider like the Fox and SN95. The coil spring perches are within 1/2" total spacing of the G Body. The lower trailing arm brackets are within 1/4" total spacing of the G Body and take a stock 2" 1/2 wide bushing. The Fox and SN95 have 2.815" axle tube diameters, the Crown Vic has 3". So in both scenarios I need axles, adjustable trailing arms, and want it 58" stock width. Pictures are not mine and the Crown Vic has already been narrowed but they show the difference.

G Body vs Fox Body.jpg
G Body vs Crown Vic.jpg
cv5.jpg
cv8.jpg


I went on carpart.com just for fun to see what the difference would be if I pulled one myself or just bought one already pulled. My local yards charge about $100 with core charge if I pull it and smell like gear oil for the next week. I found one sort of local for $125. It was about 50 miles away. So I called and he said they do deliveries to my area and could put it on the next route in a few days. Total price he gave me was $120. Done deal.

Picked it up at one of there stops 5 miles away and brought it home to strip down.

20200214_143534a.jpg
20200219_102150.jpg
20200219_112304.jpg
20200220_104656.jpg
20200220_112007.jpg


Mocked it up and measured everything a million times. Looks good!

20200226_120356.jpg
20200226_120417.jpg
20200226_120536.jpg
20200226_120549.jpg
20200226_120606.jpg
20200226_120617.jpg
20200226_120623.jpg
20200226_120647.jpg
20200226_120731.jpg


Packed it up and shipped it to Quick Performance for modification.

20200303_104711.jpg


And that’s where I am at. I hope you guys, and girls find this useful and I will update as I progress.
 
Last edited:
Looks like you have a nice clean canvas to start with, great time like Guy says to start with some mod's to strengthen the frame and clean up GM's crappy welding too. Good luck and keep up the good progress!

Thanks! Feedback from you guys here really goes a long way.
 

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor