Here you go 530 ft/lbs with 3.385" stock stroke at the crank thanks to aluminum heads and a big solid roller cam. Not cheap and barely streetable with that cam.
motor mounts option/ install
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Remember, a chassis dyno does not show engine torque. It shows multiplied torque through the torque converter. A chassis dyno is a tuning tool for bragging rights.
If I'm not mistaken, the "350" would be well over 400cid. With an aggressive roller cam and ported heads I'd be disappointed if it DIDN'T have 500lbs.
Agreed. And adding stroke does add torque but there are other factors. Mark did a 9 to 1 compression 422 ci with #7 heads with the bowls opened with a cutter and no porting otherwise just 2"/1.625" valves, mild maybe 220 duration hydraulic roller cam and made 406 hp and 508 ft/lbs of torque. Mark said 89 octane would be no problem probably 87 would work just fine. Plus the crank weighs less than a 330 crank. I have seen way to many failed 455 builds to even consider trying one. They are kind of like a 2004R trans. Great if built right, in stock form pushed hard, a big expense to fix right.
You just need to lose the wet noodle N crank. I have to admit that I have absolute confidence in Trimble's offset ground 425 unit in my 468 (4.24" stroke- factory 455ish). I threw a J&S Halo in for good measure, even though its worth has been debated heavily for years. How can it hurt?
Frank Trimble's Olds builds are an example of builds done right, everyone is happy with them. Olds experts are all over the board for clearances. I have a Ohio crankshaft machined offset ground steel 330 3.5" stroke crank done to Smitty's spec, which are tight. I believe .0025 mains and .0022 rods. I do have much lighter pistons and Scat rods for the 403 stroker which will hopefully help it live. I would be tickled with similar 400 hp and 475 ft/lbs of torque and I should be, maybe more with a roller cam and more ported #6 with 2"/1.625" valves and the same 9.6 to 1. The only thing I didn't like about Briguy's build is no mention of a 1.625" valve added to the heads. Otherwise, a very nice build.
I'm not sure on what valves are being used. My buddy might know. And Those numbers were estimated. Kinda assumed they might be a little more than actual, but the car runs good. I'm happy with it. Got my motor mounts today. So hopefully that will go well. Any tips on replacing them? Think I might actually do a video, since there isn't any online...
Here's a tip: it ain't gonna be fun! Loosen both cross bolts, remove the nuts, get one cross bolt through the frame pad out, jack it up (board on jack pad under oil pan or trans, replace mount, let it down, replace cross bolt, repeat for other side.
for the nuts and bolts on the frame side I use flanged serrated, I put the bolts pointing up so the serrated flange on the head of the bolt will let you tighten and torque the nut without you have to hold the head. I use a magnet to put the bolts in place and put some blue loctite paste on the threads. I just cut the bolts that are in there now cause it is hard with all the supension in place to get to the nuts/bolts.
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