muncie and hurst shifter downshifting troubles
- Thread starter mebe007
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Nope, it fits on the nose just fine. But I just checked the RockAuto catalog. Buick and Chevy use the same bushing, and Chevy gets a needle bearing like you have. Olds and Pontiac use the same bushing and #7109 roller that I use. The outer diameter difference is a few tenths, so I stand corrected, they are not all the same. The part about the bell housing alignment is true for all engines and yet is hardly ever checked. Most transmissions I've owned have had a bit of input shaft sloppiness that probably makes up for slight bellhousing/block missalignment from the factory. I know when you use an aftermarket scattershield you had better check for alignment, and offset dowels will correct it, but I have always just used stock parts with no problems.
i just dont want to tear up my muncie.
btw did anyone see the video of the inside of my muncue? i noticed some play in 2nd gear dont know if its normal. if it is im going to reseal it and get things ready to go back in.
http://vid42.photobucket.com/albums/e32 ... d73jz0.mp4
i guess i just want to be sure that the issues i was having were directly related to this crazy clutch ordeal and not something else as well.
remember everything worked fine till a hard pull. then i smelled clutch and no down shift from 3rd to 2nd without pushing towards 1st and pulling back to 2nd
btw did anyone see the video of the inside of my muncue? i noticed some play in 2nd gear dont know if its normal. if it is im going to reseal it and get things ready to go back in.
http://vid42.photobucket.com/albums/e32 ... d73jz0.mp4
i guess i just want to be sure that the issues i was having were directly related to this crazy clutch ordeal and not something else as well.
remember everything worked fine till a hard pull. then i smelled clutch and no down shift from 3rd to 2nd without pushing towards 1st and pulling back to 2nd
Mark, you'll be fine. You found the problem and even upgraded since it was apart, why not- right? But do you know why I feel for you? My first ever 4 speed swap was in my old '68 Firebird. I was all proud and cocky, bangin' through the gears all the way to work. When I got there I roared down the driveway in first gear, spun around to park, and couldn't back into a parking spot. Reverse would just grind. Everybody was watching me and was my face RED! Finally I parked head in and when it was time to go home I had to push the car backwards to get out. Turned out to be the clutch not releasing due to linkage problems. Yeah, that reverse idler gear wants everything to STOP turning before it will engage. Welcome to my world. 
Thanks guys. Just talked to paul a little before over at 5speeds again and he said it's just normal clearances.
So found another problem, tried to fix it and caused another problem, and maybe fixed it lol
Upon inspection of the shift rods I found they had been binding with each other. So dug in my files found the instructions. Per hurst, sometimes bending is required, bend cold, do not heat. So I bend cold and the sob cracks. Anyways ground the crack out and welded it all up. Got it adjusted and it all looks great now. So will this be ok or is it now a weak spot/ problem?
You can see on the lower rod where upper rod was hitting it. The upper actually has a wierd bend in it going down into the lower rod
So now everything stays parralell and no longer binds. Seems smooth as butter
So found another problem, tried to fix it and caused another problem, and maybe fixed it lol
Upon inspection of the shift rods I found they had been binding with each other. So dug in my files found the instructions. Per hurst, sometimes bending is required, bend cold, do not heat. So I bend cold and the sob cracks. Anyways ground the crack out and welded it all up. Got it adjusted and it all looks great now. So will this be ok or is it now a weak spot/ problem?
You can see on the lower rod where upper rod was hitting it. The upper actually has a wierd bend in it going down into the lower rod
So now everything stays parralell and no longer binds. Seems smooth as butter
Hmmm. They say NEVER weld or heat the rods and for good reason. Once bent they are heat treated and any more heating ruins that. So a long time ago I had a set up that was cobbled together and I had to seriously bend a rod so I heated it. It worked fine and I figured they were BS-ing us or were just overly cautious. Then I got my first Malibu wagon and I put a Firebird Saginaw in and of course the shifter mounted way back at the tail and the rods hit the trans tunnel and each other. So I figure just heat and bend them, right? Fine, for a while. One day on the expressway I'm grabbing 3rd and the rod breaks! I got off the highway and figured out what happened and scrounged a length of heavy gauge wire which I hooked up so I could yank it into 4th gear only. I got back on the X-way and jumped from 2nd to 4th and stayed in 4th all the way home. I immediately went and bought the correct Hurst A/G body installation kit and I have never heated a rod ever again. My guess is that without the stiffness of the heat treating, the rod bends in use, work hardens, and after a while, fractures.
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