My 383 TBI project

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Re: My 383 TBI project (TB383I)

Any idea of what kind of HP your getting? I'm thinking about building a 383 for my 87
 
Re: My 383 TBI project (TB383I)

to polish the ports and get int here deep, what you can do is take a long metal stick and ise a hack saw or dremil cutoff disk and put a notch in it about 1/2" down so if ya looked at it from the top it would kinda look like this (|)then take a strip of 80 grit thats 1/2"wide by as long as ya want. then slip a part of the paper in teh slot and twirll it around the stick and then go porting!
 
As far as HP, I would guess somewhere between 360-390 at sea level. Currently it's probably around 320-340 because I'm about 2600' above sea level. I arrived at my estimate by calculating HP off of the maximum duty cycle of the injectors, and the flow rate (HP = ([INJECTOR SIZE (LB/HR) X DUTY CYCLE] / BSFC) X (# OF INJECTORS)... BSFC is typically .50-.55).

Was that post for me beermonkey? I have stones with shanks long enough to get down into the ports. You don't want a mirror finish on the intake anyway, it hampers fuel suspension (keeping fuel in the air instead of it dropping out and collecting on the port walls) on wet-flow intakes - though a polished finish is good for dry-flow, port style injection. On a side note, this is also why you don't run too large of a port on an engine - port velocity drops, causing the fuel to drop out of the air.

There are some values that aid in MAP filtering... i.e. if you have a high valve overlap that could cause unsteady map readings. Using this it helps keep the computer from freaking out at a low or unsteady map reading.

It idles at 700-800 with a steady vacuum reading, quite honestly overlap isn't that bad, even with 110º. Based on the WUD reading, it still pulls around 43-46KPa, which comes out to around 14" of vacuum. Basically it idles like a stock TBI small block, not to say a larger cam would pose any issue. Guys have run the EBL to over 500hp.

If you're considering DIY tuning and want to basically stick with the stuff you already have, definitely go for the EBL. If you don't have the soldering skills (or aren't confident enough for fine soldering on a PC board) you can buy an already-done setup. Also get the wideband setup at the same time, I don't believe there is any way you'd get a reasonable tune without one... so you're looking at around $600 for a completely tunable ECM and wideband setup. I say that's a decent deal because you can run what you already have. You will also need a higher pressure pump... several are available (Walbro, TPI pump, '96-'97 Vortec truck pump - which I'm currently running), and a variable pressure regulator. I picked mine up on eBay for $50. It's really quite a simple device, no need to spend $75 on a Jet brand. The one I got also had a pilot hole already drilled to open up/tap for vacuum reference, which I also did since I was having idle issues - the injectors can't finely control fuel as well at pressures above 18-19psi, so idle would be somewhat erratic... predictable, but erratic.

Check this thread, it's an ongoing help/discussion thread on the EBL. RBob is the brainiac that made all this EBL stuff possible. Personally I'd also suggest getting a cheap netbook (i.e. a used one on Craigslist for $75, just one that'll run WinXP), it's much less cumbersome to use than a big 17" laptop... ask me how 😉
 
Glad you are still running it doober, I love mine. i run mine with a 150 shot too, and a big comp cam. I have a few posts on 3rd gen too. Waiting on bob to finish the SFI-6 EBL for my Turbo Buick, man i can't wait, lol :twisted:
 
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