My turbo 5.3 and 4l80e wagon build

[79longroof]

You could pull 10% fuel for sure, and probably a couple of times lol. And until you get it dialed in, keep the timing waaay safe in boost. Drop 2-3 degrees more than you know will be ok. I've wasted too much time trying to tune the 2-8 psi timing numbers before I added 2 + 2 to figure out that it really doesn't matter what those numbers are as long as it doesn't detonate there because when your foot's in it, you are never in that area of boost under load - especially with an auto.

Good luck and keep us posted.

I really appreciate the advice! Yeah I went into my spark table and brought everything down. I have it sitting right around m 14-17 timing wise. It was in the 20s to start off with lol

 

[tjhooker4156]

Saw your wagon on the FB page, and just read the build thread. I'm doing a similar build but with a N/A LQ4 and 4L80e (turbo in the future). Awesome job, and thanks for the motivation.

 

[79longroof]

Saw your wagon on the FB page, and just read the build thread. I'm doing a similar build but with a N/A LQ4 and 4L80e (turbo in the future). Awesome job, and thanks for the motivation.

Thanks man! Even an N/A build will really surprise you. I know mine has plenty even without boost. But man when it comes up on the converter and enters boost, it's a whole other animal lol.

 

[Csilvy2000]

Cool build. Did you fabricate the driveshaft yourself?

 

[79longroof]

Cool build. Did you fabricate the driveshaft yourself?

No I didnt, I had a local driveshaft shop do it. I just bought the ends and took them to them with my measurements.
I don't trust myself enough nor do I have the proper tools to do it myself

 

[Csilvy2000]

Yeah, I understand. Something you would prefer not to fail under harsh conditions. The build is awesome.

 

[79longroof]

Cool build. Did you fabricate the driveshaft yourself?

No I didnt, I had a local driveshaft shop do it. I just bought the ends and took them to them with my measurements.
I don't trust myself enough nor do I have the proper tools to do it myself

Yeah, I understand. Something you would prefer not to fail under harsh conditions. The build is awesome.

Exactly. Something that spins that fast right underneath me, I'd rather it be right.
And thank you! It's really been sort of a dream come true. I have a lot of love for this car and have always wanted to do something like this too it ever since I was a teen. Now it has finally come to fruition and I couldn't be happier with it. And it will only keep getting better.

 

[tjhooker4156]

Here's an update on some other things I've gotten done on the build so far.
For gear changes I'm going with the B&M Pro Stick Magnum with a 4 speed gate. Love the look and feel of these shifters. Can't wait to use it.

A few pics are of my re-worked harness. It's not as fancy as the ones you can buy but I'm more than happy with it. Deleted everything I didn't need and added the extra VSS pigtail for the transmission. It's all wired through an aftermarket 4 fuse Dorman fuse block with relays for fuel pump, coils, injectors and main power. My cooling fans will run on their own fuses and relays.

One pic of the Cipher Auto seats installed. Very happy with the quality and feel of them. Especially for $350 for the pair.

Last few of my oil supply and return ports on my shortened truck oil pan.

Two questions:

1) Why did you need to add an extra VSS?

2) Could you explain how you hooked up your harness to the astro sending unit? I followed the LT1Swap harness modification process so I have the wire running from the fuel pump relay, and there is the orginal fuel level wire. The astro sending unit has a ground eyelet (I got that one), and a pigtail with 3 wires. I assume that one is the power, one is the level, but I don't know what the third is. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[79longroof]

Two questions:

1) Why did you need to add an extra VSS?

2) Could you explain how you hooked up your harness to the astro sending unit? I followed the LT1Swap harness modification process so I have the wire running from the fuel pump relay, and there is the orginal fuel level wire. The astro sending unit has a ground eyelet (I got that one), and a pigtail with 3 wires. I assume that one is the power, one is the level, but I don't know what the third is. Any help is greatly appreciated.

TJ, the extra VSS was added because the 4l80e uses 2 speed sensors. One for the input shaft and the other for the output. My harness was from a truck with a 4l60e, which only has one speed sensor. So adding the second is necessary to make everything work right.

You are correct, the eyelet is the ground.
The purple wire is the float hot wire.
The grey wire is the hot fuel pump supply wire
The other wire (cant remember the color) is a ground as well. I connected that one to my ground for the fuel pump, which is connected to the same place on the chassis as the fuel sender ground.

 

[tjhooker4156]

Thanks man. My harness came off a truck with a 4L80e so I was good to go already, just wanted to make sure that I hadn't skipped over something.

Hopefully I can get mine up and running in a week or two.