Got the intercooler mounted and all the charge piping routed too. Went surprising well. Just had to use the trusted reciprocating saw to make stuff work.
My turbo 5.3 and 4l80e wagon build
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And finally got my crossmember figured out. Used the factory one with a few modifications. I had seen someone do something on another forum. Can't for the life of me find it. So I'm not taking credit for this idea. But I was able to used the factory mounting holes on the frame which I was pleased with.
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It's been a few weeks and I've gotten a lot done.
Had a driveshaft made by a local shop. I bought 2 1350 3" driveshaft ends and took it to them with my measurements. It turned out perfect. The yoke I used is a Neapco N3-3-2431X. I bought it from Northern drivetrain. It has the correct splines for the 80e and has a .050 inch counterbore.
For those of you who might be looking at doing an 80e swap, the yoke is probably the most important step. On the trucks these came in, they used bolt-on yokes and used a slip joint in the driveshaft. For most everyone, installing a slip joint shaft in a car is pretty useless and unnecessary. So you have two options. 1.) Use the factory yoke but weld up the end so it doesn't leak or 2.) Buy a yoke with a counter bore (or have a normal yoke counter bored). The factory yokes have an o-ring that seals on a lip on the output shaft. If you use a normal yoke with no counterbore, you run the risk of the yoke bottoming out on that lip and tearing up your transmission. So be mindful of that. And the yoke I posted works great.
Had a driveshaft made by a local shop. I bought 2 1350 3" driveshaft ends and took it to them with my measurements. It turned out perfect. The yoke I used is a Neapco N3-3-2431X. I bought it from Northern drivetrain. It has the correct splines for the 80e and has a .050 inch counterbore.
For those of you who might be looking at doing an 80e swap, the yoke is probably the most important step. On the trucks these came in, they used bolt-on yokes and used a slip joint in the driveshaft. For most everyone, installing a slip joint shaft in a car is pretty useless and unnecessary. So you have two options. 1.) Use the factory yoke but weld up the end so it doesn't leak or 2.) Buy a yoke with a counter bore (or have a normal yoke counter bored). The factory yokes have an o-ring that seals on a lip on the output shaft. If you use a normal yoke with no counterbore, you run the risk of the yoke bottoming out on that lip and tearing up your transmission. So be mindful of that. And the yoke I posted works great.
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Also got the B&M Stealth Pro-magnum all hooked up. You can also kind of see my kill switch I wired. The hot side of the switch uses 2 gauge wire to the battery. The normally open side uses 2 gauge to the starter where my factory power wire is as well. My hot at all times for the ECU also runs to the normally open side of the switch, so when I need it to, the switch cuts power to everything. The alternator now runs straight to the battery
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And with all that being said, it finally moves under it's own power! Took an opportunity to snap a few pics of it FINALLY seeing some daylight outside of the garage
The hotside looked familiar for some reason!
The wrap is really good at keeping under hood temps under control. My hood would burn you if you touched it before the wrap and turbo blanket.
The wrap is really good at keeping under hood temps under control. My hood would burn you if you touched it before the wrap and turbo blanket.
Haha well I did get the inspiration from yours. There are a couple of things I would have done differently but I'm still happy with it.
My good did get a little toasty the other day but nothing unmanageable. Good thing the paint is crap anyway lol
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