Need Help Running Fuel Line to Mechanical Pump

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StayTrue28

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Apr 4, 2016
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Las Vegas
Installing an edelbrock mech pump. Problem is the fuel lines come out of the frame on the driver side... fuel pump on passenger side block.
How would you run the feed? Across the K member maybe? And with what hose/fittings? I want it to be clean and safe.
I'm good from the pump to the carb with the following parts..

Black Fuel Line Kit
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/81233/10002/-1
Fuel Inlet Line
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/81343/10002/-1
Fuel Pump
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/1721/10002/-1

The JEGS tech told me not to worry about the return. It's currently not hooked up with the electric but why would I want it?

Thank you
 
How much would that cost in comparison and is there a kit for the wagon to run up the passenger side? The lines are currently in the factory location and I'd hate to have to relocate anything..
 
I would not run it under the engine to the other side, I like to keep the fuel line away from heat so the fuel stays cool it won't cause any issues
 
  • Agree
Reactions: Texas82GP
The correct way is what Steve suggested. If the line is original then all the more reason to replace it. Otherwise the next best way is to put a double flare on the end of the existing line and run an extension through the frame to the other side. That end should be double flared as well and joined to the main line by a proper union. You could just use a compression fitting since it is a suction rather than a pressure line. But I tend to use double flare fittings exclusively for safety and security. That pump has no return fitting so you can't use the return line anyway so plug it. The purpose of the recirculating fuel line is to keep cool fresh fuel at the carb end to avoid vapor lock. This is especially important on cars with AC.
 
You should be able to buy the correct fuel line from classic tube or inline tube in either stainless or natural steel. Just buy the line for a g body wagon with a SBC.
 
I'm not gonna say this is the best way to do it, but if you're poor/lazy like I am you can get away with some jerry-rigging...
I will admit I initially ran this line as a 'temporary' fix until I could do it the proper way.
Well it worked beautifully and I'm lazy so 24K miles later it's still there...

I used a coat-hanger as a template and then transferred the pattern to my 3/8" tube.
You'll need a tubing bender and a flaring tool if you don't have them.
Both ends are flared properly to ensure there aren't any leaks, and it does not touch anything that moves.
Eventually when I pull my motor back out I'll re-do it the right way. Until then, this will do just fine...

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I don't think anyone will dispute that the correct way would be as ponticgp said is to run new lines from the tank on the opposite side of the car and this would also be a good time to upgrade to a larger diameter line especially if performance is in your future.
Now strictly as a temporary fix (not 24k temporary) as Blake442 suggested you have an advantage over his set up with the Edelbrock pump since the inlet is clockable you can turn it to face the driver's side and run the hardline directly to the pump without the need for a bend or rubber hose on that end.
You will need 3/8" steel line or if you have Cunifer tubing available locally you won't need a bender or have to worry about rust but you will still have to double flare the end where it meets the rubber hose assuming that you have to cut the line for an exact fit.
 
Blake, I did the same as you many years ago on a big 'ol Catalina. When I finally junked the car there it still was, so I kept it.
 
Thanks for all the replys guys! Don't want to take on too many projects right now. I just want to cruise and save up some $$ to do many projects at once.
Yes, new lines would be best which is what I'd rather do. The factory lines are excellent though. The wagon has under 50k original miles CA car.
Question.. If I ever go the LS route, which side is preferable? Pass/Driver?
 
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