Need opinions on gear ratio situation

Status
Not open for further replies.
Hey 85_cutlass,

Here are the craigslist ads i'm looking at for one of those nissan pickups. Let me know what you think and which is probably the best bet.

http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/1395656157.html
http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/ctd/1378639676.html
http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/1353371796.html


As for the malibu, the car died on me right in the middle of a major road and I'm pissed. The voltage on the gauge dropped from a typically 13 volts to about 10.5. This just goes to show, don't beat the hell out of your hot rods driving long distances, buy another junk car or something to drive. Most of you guys have seen my car from pics and what not and I figured I've got roughly 70-80k miles on that motor. I'm gonna start setting it up for a big block but first I'm going to get my roadrunner done.
 
So your alternator died? Big deal, those take like 20 minutes to replace.

If you run something like an MSD box I've seen just a little drop in voltage cause the car to die.
 
The alternator is brand new. Ever since I rebuilt the car, there as been random times where the voltage dropped like that but not for a long period of time. I'm just running an aftermarket HEI distributor (MSD).
 
I know one of the problems was the battery had a loose post but even after fixing it, it read the same on the gauge. I checked the alternator with a voltmeter to check the output and its putting out just fine.
 
Replace the batt cable. They do go bad and they are often over looked
 
The battery cables I have mount to the side of the battery, not on top. So when I park in my parking garage, I unbolt the battery cable, flip the killswitch, and take off the battery wire from the distributor as a theft deterrant. Most of the time, I hand tight the bolts that are holding the cables to the side of the battery, so sometimes they tend to shake loose. Still doesn't explain the drop in voltage charge but I'll look into that later.
 
patmckinneyracing said:
The battery cables I have mount to the side of the battery, not on top. So when I park in my parking garage, I unbolt the battery cable, flip the killswitch, and take off the battery wire from the distributor as a theft deterrant. Most of the time, I hand tight the bolts that are holding the cables to the side of the battery, so sometimes they tend to shake loose. Still doesn't explain the drop in voltage charge but I'll look into that later.

That could be your problem right there, My car won't even start if the battery cables arent tightened down properly, it will turn over but not fire....
 
patmckinneyracing said:
The battery cables I have mount to the side of the battery, not on top. So when I park in my parking garage, I unbolt the battery cable, flip the killswitch, and take off the battery wire from the distributor as a theft deterrant. Most of the time, I hand tight the bolts that are holding the cables to the side of the battery, so sometimes they tend to shake loose. Still doesn't explain the drop in voltage charge but I'll look into that later.

your taking a chance burning out your alternator with your cables finger tight
 
Don't let the bad results obscure the problem. A 2.41 axle ratio will give better mileage than a 3.73. An overdrive will not deliver as good a mileage as the 2.41 axle will in direct drive if its overall final drive ratio is the same (ie a .646 overdrive x 3.73 axle ratio = 2.41) because the overdrive mechanism wastes at least 6% of your engine power.

I think that what is happening is that your manifold vacuum is so low that it (1) prevents the transmission from shifting properly and timely to the correct gear (2) your carburetor's "power jets" or equivalent are opening and enrichening the mixture (3) the vacuum advance isn't enough to give the correct spark advance for to produce that torque at your current rpm.
It sounds like you have done a lot of modifications to your vehicle. Most of these modifications are planned to enhance power and accelleration at the expense of every other concern.

Put a vacuum gauge in the car. It will show you when your carburetor decides to go to a richer mixture, whether it is by opening jets, secondaries, or whatever. It will also show you how uneven the demands for power are placed on your engine.

Look closely at the exhaust side of your car. Anything that prevents the exhaust from getting out freely is not only causing a horsepower loss (the power lost by pumping against that resistance) but is preventing the engine from being able to suck in that nice cool lean mixture and producing intake vacuum.

A side note. If you keep your rpm below 2000 you can get by with ridiculously little muffler. I once ran a Mercedes diesel for about two years without a muffler just by keeping the rpm down so that I wouldn't be a pest with the noise.

If the axle ratio to produce optimum mileage for your vehicle is in the low 2s (and I believe that it is) the optimum transmission to produce mileage is a wide ratio manual (6.32 or 6.69 are both very appropriate). As a driver I would appreciate a 5 speed, but as an engineer, I can't say that it will produce much of a mileage gain. The manual will eliminate the current problems that you have with shifting, but you will have to train yourself to use it. A transmission is the tool that you use to tell your engine how hard that you want it to work. To accelerate faster, tell the engine to work harder by running higher rpm. To get mileage, keep the rpm down.

By using a manual transmission you can even make a combination that only has to be fed when you make it work. A car with a 6.32 transmission and a 2.41 axle will move off the line just like a car with a 2.41 first gear and a 6.32 axle, it will just have more of a loss of power during the shifts.

For mileage you have to keep the tire pressures up, whereas someone with a drag racing background might want to run low tire pressure to get better traction. This little bit of extra acceleration hurts you all through the driving cycle.

If you are a good racer, you keep the wheel bearings and universal joints well greased, the chassis aligned for minimum rolling drag.

You might want to think about your thermostat. The engine has to be up to proper temperature to get the best mileage, though this effect is slight with carburetors and very noticeable with fuel injection, which changes the mixture radically when you get to normal operating temperature.

Finally, be realistic about what you expect from your car. A Mustang with 302 could be expected to get 25, but if you get that Malibu to 22 you have done well.

One last thing. The road from San Antonio to College Station has lots of long hills. Don't fight the hills, and especially don't use a cruise control that fights them by opening the throttle when going up and closing it when going down. Hold a steady throttle. Lose a couple of miles per going uphill and gain them back going down. Just try to keep your throttle steady.

I wish I had seen your posts six months ago when you had the problem.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor