ok so i have a TON of issues with my build but in the meantime id like to keep moving. From what i gather the drier has a #12 fitting that needs to be converted to #10 hose and that goes to the compressor, the video i saw said that the drier itself has the high port so no need to add a high port. Now the smaller port thats coming out of the evaporator (where the orifiice tube is, and mine is completely stuck and ripped up) is supposed to have a low pressure port? Is that correct? drier has hihg pressure built in? anu help is much appreciated.
new ac lines low and high port for sanden compressor on ls swap
- Thread starter johnnunez29
- Start date
So just add low side on the line that comes out from behind the drier correct? I’m converting 134 aswell.
Take some pics and let's see what you got? You seem to be describing parts of two different style A/C systems.
Is this a factory A/C system originally with an R4 compressor you're just converting to Sanden, but retaining everything else. Or is this a aftermarket kit like OriginalAir or VintageAir with it's own underdash HVAC box and controls. etc?
The orifice tube is on the INLET of the Evaporator, anything before that orifice is considered high pressure; gas from the compressor to condenser and liquid from the condenser to evaporator/orifice.
You said it has hi press port on receiver/drier but a CCOT (Cycling Clutch Orifice Tube) system doesn't use that on the high side like a TXV system typically does. It instead uses an Accumulator which is on the OUTLET side of the Evaporator. The outlet side of the Evaporator is low pressure, and the Accumulator should have two low side ports on it, one for service, and the other for the pressure cycling switch.
Post some pics, and I'd be happy to try and help further.
Is this a factory A/C system originally with an R4 compressor you're just converting to Sanden, but retaining everything else. Or is this a aftermarket kit like OriginalAir or VintageAir with it's own underdash HVAC box and controls. etc?
The orifice tube is on the INLET of the Evaporator, anything before that orifice is considered high pressure; gas from the compressor to condenser and liquid from the condenser to evaporator/orifice.
You said it has hi press port on receiver/drier but a CCOT (Cycling Clutch Orifice Tube) system doesn't use that on the high side like a TXV system typically does. It instead uses an Accumulator which is on the OUTLET side of the Evaporator. The outlet side of the Evaporator is low pressure, and the Accumulator should have two low side ports on it, one for service, and the other for the pressure cycling switch.
Post some pics, and I'd be happy to try and help further.
Looks like you have a port on the compressor. I’m told that’s not needed as the drier has it built in. And in yours that looks like low side. I was told that’s high side and the other one that comes from the back takes low side
This is what I got. Orifice tube is fd in the back.
Attachments
You don't have to worry about the LO side service port you have that already on the ACCUMULATOR at the EVAPORATOR outlet. That just needs the r134a adapter for the quick connect style. That big blue cap on the ACCUMULATOR needs it's hose to go back to the COMPRESSOR inlet, it's Sanden they usually are marked IN/OUT or LO/HI right on the manifold fitting, or case. Look for that. else find the model number of that compressor and head over to Sanden web site and locate the technical info on it to confirm it's port configuration.
You can then decide where you want to put a HI side service port if none already exists. Basically it can go anywhere from the COMPRESSOR's outlet pipe/hose to the CONDENSOR INLET, or CONDENSOR OUTLET over to the EVLAPORATOR INLET (aka where the orifice tube lives). It's up to you where you can fit it, and access it for service charging and diagnosis.
On G bodies the CONDENSOR outlet line to the EVAPORATOR inlet is usually a solid (no hose) 3/8" O.D. tube that runs along the PASS fender well and under the coolant reservoir to the orifice tube connection. You can possibly put something like this repair TEE into that line and it will provide a HI side port.
If you have the system open, and are fabricating/crimping your own hoses/lines, etc you can but crimp fittings with ports built in like in the pic Agleans posted earlier where both are right there at the Compressor inlet/outlet. Vintage Air, and other online AC fittings vendors have all kinds of options on that front. Good information here from 4 Seasons on all kinds of AC fittings, seals, sizes, shapes, etc..
If you feel you might need to move the orifice tube location to maybe the other side of the ACCUMULATOR, facing forward you can probably *carefully* bend that EVAPORATOR inlet tube (with ACCUMULATOR removed, then cut off the original tube end, and replace it with the orifice tube repair kit.
I used one on mine because the original EVAP inlet tube was bent up and the orifice tube wouldn't slide in properly. Here's before/after pic of that installed.
BEFORE
AFTER
It really doesn't matter so long as you understand and identify the two sides of the system. then it becomes a matter of practically and accessibility since you have a lot packed in there under the hood.
HTH
