New all Alum Rad install went well
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actually I didn't, I have known some people to run it so cool the oil never gets up to proper operating temp and that destroys an engine.
i also went with a champion one.
have a question. when i run a 180 thermostat or any other thermostat i almost over heat. when i run no thermostat i run 180 all day. have a electric waterpump and twin electric fans on a mild 454. any idea why ...i dont have any heat or ac so i dont need it but want to know why it works like this.
have a question. when i run a 180 thermostat or any other thermostat i almost over heat. when i run no thermostat i run 180 all day. have a electric waterpump and twin electric fans on a mild 454. any idea why ...i dont have any heat or ac so i dont need it but want to know why it works like this.
usually if you don't run a thermostat that's when the overheating problems can crop up. The thermostat allows the coolant to stay in the rad a little longer by slowing it down the flow to cool it off. What are you running for a coolant?
454cutlass said:i also went with a champion one.
have a question. when i run a 180 thermostat or any other thermostat i almost over heat. when i run no thermostat i run 180 all day. have a electric waterpump and twin electric fans on a mild 454. any idea why ...i dont have any heat or ac so i dont need it but want to know why it works like this.
I think your electric water pump isn't up to the job, it can't flow enough through the restriction of the thermostat, when you remove it your pump can manage.
Possibly your gauge is giving a false reading, unlikely I know but not unknown.
X2 on running at the design temperature, overcooling is a short cut to rapid bore wear, and can cause the pistons to sieze on the cylinder walls, I've seen it happen on diesel trucks but gas engine wouldn't be immune.
Roger
the water pump is a csr 35-37 gpm http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CSI-900NB/
the coolent is just prestone/water with a bottle of water wetter
seems to flow at a good rate
stock thermo and a drilled thermo still did the same thing belive it ran around 215
no thermo runs at 180
the coolent is just prestone/water with a bottle of water wetter
seems to flow at a good rate
stock thermo and a drilled thermo still did the same thing belive it ran around 215
no thermo runs at 180
It came back to me why a thermostat is required....the temp your reading without a thermostat is the temp of the coolant but not the engine. Basically without a thermostat the coolant flows too quickly to absorb enough heat from the metal so the metal keeps on heating up
454cutlass said:
I had many of the same problems with my 49 pickup, I figured my rad was clogged but i heard a lot of different things to potentially fix my issue, Make sure the lower rad hose is a sprung hose and is not collapsing on itself. Also make sure you do not have faulty thermos. Ive gone through about 4 from autozone that were all faulty. I now test them prior to putting into my vehicle. Ensure the electric pumps motor isnt going bad, spins fine with no load but under load might start to create a higher current. Check the current of the motor not underload and underload and make sure the difference isnt major, if so the motor is on its way out. And again as stated check the actual temp and not the gauge reading, place a turkey temp gauge in the top of your radiator with the cap off and let the vehicle warm up. The placement of the temp gauge can effect your reading sometimes but usually only gives a cooler reading in bad spots. Try running a rad flush from a local autoparts store if all else fails, there might be a blockage of shale or something located inside the block. Last thing if all else fails you are going to have to create an electric fan shroud for both of your fans and full enclose the backside of the rad and make sure the fans pull fully through the rad. Had to do this before was a nightmare determining this to fix my overheating problem.
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