Maybe I'll try putting new gears in the existing rear end, if it ends up breaking I'll start looking for an 8.5". I'm going to be a long way from having the car on the road so who knows what might turn up between now and then. I'm not planning on racing the car, just a cruiser that will have a bit of punch to it. As for the TH400, I'll have to decide what I'm going to do and compare costs of both options. Thanks guys.
New guy with some questions
- Thread starter Wildmani
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if your in no rush put the 400 up for sale and then you can put that towards a 350...just the savings from having to get a driveshaft cut and balanced will put probably $100-150 in your pocket
With the TH400, what almost always doesn't get mentioned is it you have an electric kickdown, also determine if it has a switch-pitch convertor in it (some like it, some don't) & the screen's odd-ball from what I remember. Other than that, they're beasts - good score. As you're decoding the car, decode the engine and trans too.
For the cross-member you got options like G-force, Jegs... If running the G-Force I believe you may need to buy the extension kit since it's a '79 since the holes in different locations. But it is beefy, has humps for the duals, and takes a lot of abuse. There was a person making / selling tube crossmembers but can't recall their name (been a LONG time ago).
With the floor shifter, if wanting to do that now with the bench you can run a B&M truck Megashifter. It's the same as the regular one except it has a taller box to put the shifter handle up higher. Or you can run a taller shifter handle like those that are advertised in JC Whitney for trucks. You'll have to think about the neutral / safety switch floor-mount shifters put them at the shifter and maybe a little work on the seat / frame - no biggie. The main thing is to get the cable adjusted properly, especially on the ratcheting shifters. Also, make sure the carpet totally clears the shifting mechanism, if not bind-city. You should be able to remove the column shift lever by tapping out the roll-pin.
Good luck, keep us posted and put up pics during the build.
For the cross-member you got options like G-force, Jegs... If running the G-Force I believe you may need to buy the extension kit since it's a '79 since the holes in different locations. But it is beefy, has humps for the duals, and takes a lot of abuse. There was a person making / selling tube crossmembers but can't recall their name (been a LONG time ago).
With the floor shifter, if wanting to do that now with the bench you can run a B&M truck Megashifter. It's the same as the regular one except it has a taller box to put the shifter handle up higher. Or you can run a taller shifter handle like those that are advertised in JC Whitney for trucks. You'll have to think about the neutral / safety switch floor-mount shifters put them at the shifter and maybe a little work on the seat / frame - no biggie. The main thing is to get the cable adjusted properly, especially on the ratcheting shifters. Also, make sure the carpet totally clears the shifting mechanism, if not bind-city. You should be able to remove the column shift lever by tapping out the roll-pin.
Good luck, keep us posted and put up pics during the build.
Started dismantling the engine today in preparation for removing the engine and transmission. I've been looking at some sites to try to ID the transmission I have, I actually think it might be a TH350, from all I've been able to find on line. All the info I've read says that the TH250 and TH350 look identical, but the TH250 has a "band adjustment" nut and stud on the RH side just behind the cooler lines. Mine doesn't have this nut and stud so I'm guessing it's a TH350. Are there any other clues to help me figure this out? I saw some numbers stamped into the LH side of the bellhousing, would I be able to tell from them? If it turns out that I have a TH350 I'll just keep that and forget about the TH400 swap. I might also have a lead on a posi rear out of a Monte SS with 3.73 gears, hopefully another score!
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