what heads can i use for that route? which are you using? does it have to be vortec heads?
New motor in a 78 monte
- Thread starter Mike Geepers
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Of course!
Well, not really, but keep in mind that every hunnert pounds is a tenth.
I pretty sure it all will fit. Most of it bolts to the heads. So it might determine which heads you run, but I am pretty sure most heads are drilled and tapped the same. A serpentine belt setup would be a good upgrade, if you find a complete engine.
Not necessarily, If your radiator is good use it, Water pump, stock replacement is fine, Intake....An aluminum upgrade is a plus but as long as what you have now will work with the heads your running it should be fine.
If this applies the biggest issue is making this a legal swap for your home state of California, this can really limit you on what you can do.
882 heads are the most common heads to use on a run of the mill mild build. If you can, use Vortec heads though. Intake costs slightly more, but easily another 40hp over 882 heads with no other changes. Well worth the investment. MaNy articles on what to do to them to work with a higher lift cam. Really just springs and retainers. You're not going to crazy so you'll be under .500 lift so you don't need to do any machine work on them. Cheap Summit hydraulic camshaft or if you get a roller block, I suggest the old GM HOT cam originally designed for the mid 90's LT1 series engines. You'd easily be around 375hp with headers.
If I were you. I would switch the transmission over now and then do all of the exhaust work. That way your not changing a thousand things at once. You can get those all up and running, get all the kinks out, then do the engine. JMO
If I were you. I would switch the transmission over now and then do all of the exhaust work. That way your not changing a thousand things at once. You can get those all up and running, get all the kinks out, then do the engine. JMO
Hi Mike - your looking @ a pretty easy swap just make sure you get all your ducks in a row. I assume your just lookin to build a street cruiser with a little more HP (how much?) The 3.08 gears are bothering me with an OD trans. With 20 in wheels your tire dia. is going to be in the 29in range which will put you around 1700 rpm @ 70 mph and you would have to walk softly on the engine build. A non OD trans would put you in the 2500 rpm range. Options have been brought up on the block and yes a roller is better than flat tappet BUT I am hearing budget and a roller is considerably more. Almost all my builds have been flat tappet and have never wiped a cam. Keep in mind that your drive train components need to complement each other. Buy this I mean your intake, carb, cam, converter, and rear end have to be sized right for hp and rpm you want to run. I think if you put pen to paper as to how much parts, machining, and time will be, a crate engine isn't a bad choice - done w/ warranty.
To bad you didn't lived closer to me I have an couple engines and 4 sets performance heads that might have interested you, due to health reasons I'm been trying thin out my parts - my poor Regal hasn't been out of the garage since a year ago Memorial weekend.
350 CHEVY - $500 (CANTON)
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I have a 350 chevy 010 block w/ standard bore 4 bolt. Forged steel crank std/std which I sent out to Moldex to be checked and polished. Chevy x rods w/ domed pistons. Has a comps 306s cam w/ lifters all kept in order and a double roller timing set. Flywheel, melling 55hv oil pump, damper, oil pan and timing cover. $500.00 for all. Also have other SBC parts and 4 sets of performance heads
To bad you didn't lived closer to me I have an couple engines and 4 sets performance heads that might have interested you, due to health reasons I'm been trying thin out my parts - my poor Regal hasn't been out of the garage since a year ago Memorial weekend.
350 CHEVY - $500 (CANTON)
image 2 of 3
I have a 350 chevy 010 block w/ standard bore 4 bolt. Forged steel crank std/std which I sent out to Moldex to be checked and polished. Chevy x rods w/ domed pistons. Has a comps 306s cam w/ lifters all kept in order and a double roller timing set. Flywheel, melling 55hv oil pump, damper, oil pan and timing cover. $500.00 for all. Also have other SBC parts and 4 sets of performance heads
$500?1?1 Us Olds guys areHi Mike - your looking @ a pretty easy swap just make sure you get all your ducks in a row. I assume your just lookin to build a street cruiser with a little more HP (how much?) The 3.08 gears are bothering me with an OD trans. With 20 in wheels your tire dia. is going to be in the 29in range which will put you around 1700 rpm @ 70 mph and you would have to walk softly on the engine build. A non OD trans would put you in the 2500 rpm range. Options have been brought up on the block and yes a roller is better than flat tappet BUT I am hearing budget and a roller is considerably more. Almost all my builds have been flat tappet and have never wiped a cam. Keep in mind that your drive train components need to complement each other. Buy this I mean your intake, carb, cam, converter, and rear end have to be sized right for hp and rpm you want to run. I think if you put pen to paper as to how much parts, machining, and time will be, a crate engine isn't a bad choice - done w/ warranty.
To bad you didn't lived closer to me I have an couple engines and 4 sets performance heads that might have interested you, due to health reasons I'm been trying thin out my parts - my poor Regal hasn't been out of the garage since a year ago Memorial weekend.
350 CHEVY - $500 (CANTON)
image 2 of 3
I have a 350 chevy 010 block w/ standard bore 4 bolt. Forged steel crank std/std which I sent out to Moldex to be checked and polished. Chevy x rods w/ domed pistons. Has a comps 306s cam w/ lifters all kept in order and a double roller timing set. Flywheel, melling 55hv oil pump, damper, oil pan and timing cover. $500.00 for all. Also have other SBC parts and 4 sets of performance heads
right now! Enough to make ya sick inside!
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