New motor in a 78 monte

[Mike Geepers]

Hey guys, just got a break from work and I've been following the thread. I like the idea of roller motors and more hp, but i must say again I am looking for this motor and drivetrain to push 20s with no strain. I want to cruise and jump on the freeway and chirp the tires once in a while and not constantly fret over the motor. To lilbowtie, your advice is appreciated and will probably be what i will do. I wish we did live closer together, I'd make an excuse to leave work and go straight to you before your mind changed 😜 There is a local machine shop that will sell a rebuilt 350 block heads and all for$1200, and if i want upgrades it will still be under$1800. If i keep the th350 can i still run the 308s? Or just get that out of my head? Im thinking because the wheels are heavy, more torque on the gears would help turn them. I am not sure which is why I come to the forum, I just make the cars shiny. Thank all of you for your input, it is appreciated and valued.

 

[pagrunt]

3.08's & a direct 1:1 final drive wouldn't be that bad to cuise around. I'll be running 2.73's with a 1:1 final drive rolling about 26" tall tires so I can enjoy all the hiway driving I have to do to go anywhere. I have thought of bumping up to 3.08 down the road. OD will be nice & you could bump to atleast 3.42's for some spirted driving here & there.

 

[fleming442]

You need some big block torque.

 

[565bbchevy]

I have a Tri Star 355 SBC shortblock in my Regal, it runs great and I used aluminum heads and a roller cam but for the price of the assembled shortblock you would probably spend the same amount at a machine shop plus it is free shipping to a commercial address.

355 Chevy Crate Engine (Shortblock)

•4 bolt main block •9.5:1 compression ratio (with 64cc cylinder heads) This 355 Chevy engine is ideal for a shortblock on a budget. Tri Star Chevy short block crate engines are CNC blueprinted and machined to ensure accurate fitting. Give your high performance crate engine new life with this...

www.tristarengines.com

 

[crucial118]

Hey Mike. I dont think you will have an issue with moving the 20s with any 350 choice. I'm sure your overall wheel/tire diameter will be close to stock size. Maybe a little bigger, but they will definitely weigh more. I have a 406 with AFR aluminum heads, t5, and 3:73s in my 3rg gen 20" wheel Monte. Now the big problem I see that everyone is stating that I haven't seen you comment on is the smog police. How will you deal with that?

 

[565bbchevy]

I haven't seen you comment on is the smog police. How will you deal with that?

Post #17 but I did not get a response.

 

[jiho]

My question is, what is the best combo for what I am trying to achieve?

I just ran your plate on www.smogcheck.ca.gov. Seems you're in an Enhanced area (dyno test), your car was tested once a little over 2 years ago and passed, and you're probably about due for another. So if you want to cruise street legal, the best combo would be something that passes California smog. That's EXTREMELY limiting. I've been banging my head on it for years.

Edit: I see the issue has been raised, not acknowledged.

Edit: And by "street legal" I mean with a valid registration sticker on your plate, since smogcheck is required to get that every other year.

 

[CopperNick]

One other thing to possibly consider is that although a previous thread described them as gen I, the 87-95 are actually only externally similar to some degree. The Older Gen I version would be the one which I personally consider to run from 1955 to 1985. Subject to confirmation/denial by others, 86 is the first year in which the block was changed or modified to a one piece rear seal housing and a totally different rear flange on the crank. Pretty sure the intake to head screws thread in at a different angle as well. The typical giveaway is the difference in how the rocker covers get installed. Pre 86 they have 4 bolts, 2 upper and 2 lower, that go through the upper and lower flange 86 and newer, the cover have their bolts go through the center of the cover. The 86 iteration 305 I have sitting on an engine stand in my shop did come machined for a mechanical fuel pump but the provision may have disappeared as a running upgrade once throttle bodies and fuel injection came on line.

+1 about the 010 blocks. You see a lot of them as crate motors and in four bolt main configuration. If you want to do a build it yourself, you can get stroker assemblies made by Eagle from Summit or Jegs or ?? for a fairly decent price. that leaves you with the cost of any machining needed to relieve the block for clearance for the longer stroke.

I just know someone is going to suggest an LS motor. Being in California as you are, there should be a Pick-a-Part somewhere close that has them for cheap. Just be careful as externally they all sort of look alike and you could end up with a 4.8 that you thought was a 5.3 or a 5.7.

Oh yeah, 305's can be stroked; you end up with about a 327. Almost cheaper to visit the local Chev/GM dealer and order a crate 350. Their catalogue contains multiple versions of that CID in various horsepowers and with various degrees of quality in terms of the parts used.

Nick

 

[Bullett801]

what heads can i use for that route? which are you using? does it have to be vortec heads?

Looks like the guys got you the info your looking for bud! I love this forum. Always learn new things! I haven't the slightest clue on heads, not that far yet. Almost done with chassie, doing the rear end now, then body goes back on, then motor. Im gonna rely on my engine machinist for the proper components I should use to accomplish the 400+ HP I want.

 

[Mike Geepers]

To answer some questions, i am doing a hot smog. Smog isnt an issue for this motor. A friend has offered a 350 from a 72 elco, and since that block is pre smog i may go with that (also free). I understand what you guys are saying about tire diameter, but my issue is the heaviness of the 20s and making a drivetrain combo to turn them without straining motor. 562BBC has a link for anice 355 with 64cc heads priced nicely, it may be more cost effective to buy a completed crate motor. I am keeping. th th350 and want to know if I have to switch to 3.08s or taller gears than 2.73 for cruising and hiway as i want to have nice acceleration off the line and chirp once in a while. Again smog isnt an issue just need a good combo.LS motors are pretty expensive, every junkyard wants over 800-1500 for them alot w/o harnesses, and they are still stock motors. Alot of great ideas have been stated, and i appreciate all of your input. Now i have a sense of direction. Getting ready to pull motor and clean up front end while motor is out. I will keep this post updated with pictures and a decision if one is made.