New to g-bodies, some things i'd like to know.

[AdamL]

where abouts in eastern Canada are you...and I have heard from race teams in eastern Canada that the prices out there for rollers and used parts are higher.

I'm in Saint John, NB. Right on the bay of fundy.

I mentioned to my friend who told me they had 8.2" rear ends that it has a 7.5", not a 8.2" and his only reply was "Those are even weaker" What would you suggest for a rear end if you're putting let's say, 300-400hp because if i do get one of these after about a year i would like to swap in something like a 383 stroker with a turbo 400 or a (i think it's called a 600r, 4 speed auto, can get it out of like an old Chev Astro)

 

[Joel86Cutlass]

Yeah I'm in agreement with the others on here that sounds like a lot of money for what you are talking about. And I do understand that it would be a pain buying one in the states, but on the other hand the money you save by doing so might offset the fact of having to get it to Canada. But I don't know what is involved to do that just saying that you may want to weight your options before you decide. As an example I recently purchased a 83 cutlass supreme brougham, with some of the same problems as you described including a rusted frame for $150 and it can be repaired so like I said just weight all options. Just throwing out some advice and good luck on what ever you decide, either way I am sure in the end you won't be sorry for what ever you decide to do, because owning one of these cars, in my opinion, is quite satisfying and brings me a lot of joy.

 

[pontiacgp]

for the rear end I'm going to pick up an 8.2 from a 64-67 chevelle which is 2" wider then a 7.5 and more than strong enough for my drive line. If I can't find a posi 3:08 rear end then I'll use a locker with the 3.08 and I'm converting it to disk brakes. I have no issue with an open 7.5 holding up to my engine but the spider gears in the auburn posi I had blew up. I was not aware that the gears in the auburn are smaller than the open and I would not trust a 7.5 auburn again. I could build up the 7.5 but I have someone who wants it so I can get the 8.2 for price I'm selling my rear end and it'll cost me less to build up the 8.2 since the stock axles are alot stronger than the 26 spline in the 7.5

I've been to St John a number of times..my grandparents had a cottage just outside of Shediac

 

[breeaad]

To the OP's original question: G-bodies are really bad about rusting doors. Open each door and check the bottom area under the door panel. Also check the rear frame. Crawl under the back and look closely at everything you can see with a flashlight. I point out these two areas because doors are hard to come by and a rotted frame would make the car almost worthless. Rockers, floor pans, trunk pans, and quarters are also bad about rust. But these are easier fixes.

Also, look in the door jams and see if there are plastic plugs or caps slightly smaller than a quarter in the periphery of the jam, 12 inches or so apart. Many of the northern cars got rust preventive treatments early in their lives, which will greatly reduce the risk of digging into it and finding more problems. These caps will be an indicator this car was treated at some point.

Also, keep this in mind: If it requires some engine work, body work etc, it kind of kills the value of it being a low miles vehicle. Also, it is difficult to document the miles on these cars. So don't let that part of the deal sell you. I would buy it with the mindset that you don't know what the miles are. There will be less dissappointment that way.

Good luck!!

 

[AdamL]

I'm going to try to get the car over to one of my relatives shops and see it on the lift. I haven't checked the doors but the frame, floors, trunk, and rockers are solid. I'm aware of the plastic plugs for undercoating, my cavalier has them, but i'm not sure if that car has them.

 

[1ATony]

welcome to the site

 

[jae]

Welcome to the site.

These cars hold water just like the A-body versions.

Look for rot / rust at the trunk opening & lid. On these cars there is a rubber seal that goes around the upper edge of the entire opening and come together right in front of the lock area. When you're washing the car / raining water has a tendency to sit there, which can cause rotting. And if the rubber seal is bad the water just floods into the trunk and channels. The trunk lid can hold water at the bottom edges / corners.

Look around the windshield trim, drip rails and rear window trim for signs of rust too. When washing I usally go over EVERYTHING to make sure it's dry, yes it takes an extra ten minutes or so both well worth it.

Also check the grille mounting areas for cracking. You'll have to open the hood for this but look behind the header panel between it & the core support. You'll be looking for cracking i the post. A quick-n-dirty check is to gently push on the outside of each grille near the middle / bottom, release and see if it snaps back quickly - if it doesn't snap back or lazily comes back one or more of the mount are broken.

If it has the rally gauges they can be lazy, this is easily repaired by removing the cluster and cleaning the traces / connection.

Be aware if it's a power antenna car it's in the passenger-front fender. You can get too it without entirely removing the fender but it's a PITA. Better off just removing and go from there.

If this has a console be careful with the release button, it's not the best design and the tang can break easily. Most people just yank up on the from the front (it's swings open from the passenger side) then wham, broken button. Also, the inside of the console can be lighted so check that as well (if lighted there's what looks like a white dot on the back wall of the console).

Sagging headliners are a common problem on these.

The transmission is a 700R-4, alternate you can go with a 200-4R. Depending on which you go with save some $$$ for beefing them up if you're planning any decent amount of power. Each has it's advantages / disadvantages, just check the engine swap and drivetrain threads. Investment in crossmembers, TV cable, linkages and the like may be needed.

Try to invest in a chassis service manual. If you get a Haynes don't expect much of info other than very, very basic stuff like fluid changes, light bulb replacement.

Check the RPO codes too, there should be a tag on the inner trunk lid. Stuff like F41, G80 are good.

Good luck & keep us informed.

 

[khan0165]

I thought 700-r4s weren't offered from factory? Wasn't the 200-4r the one that came OEM in these?

in any case, the 700-r4 is 3" longer, so the driveshaft must be 3" shorter than what you would find on a 200-4r, and the cross-member has to be modified.

 

[Peter]

you said it's smoking and that to be expected...

no it isn't

all the engines put into gbodies were solid engines from a durability stand point, if it smoking after the car is warmed up at the very least there is an issue there

 

[joeairforce]

I thought 700-r4s weren't offered from factory? Wasn't the 200-4r the one that came OEM in these?

Yes..... The 700R4 was never a factory option....