Is there a guide to determine if selling prices are realistic. Not to possibly offend anyone here, the reason for a G Body search for me is that it's the generation I can afford and still have a 'cool' car.
Newby with Nocar Price Question
- Thread starter ed1948
- Start date
- Status
No offense taken here. Some of these cars can still be bought quite inexpensively. I'm not aware of a pricing guide specific to these cars but check out the second post in this thread. Look at the beautiful cars lilbowtie practically gave away. I spent more than twice the money on my car and it wasn't as nice. If you are patient you can find something really nice.
https://gbodyforum.com/threads/another-whats-it-worth-thread.60313/
This site may be of help....
http://www.hemmings.com/price-guide/
How about this one: asking $7500 Cdn. -about 1 1/2 hours from me
Haven't seen it in person but I'm thinking of $6500 - taking off $1000 for suspension bushings, tires maybe
86 Monte Carlo ss, Burgundy
-90K miles
manual windows
-no mods
=no winters - chassis shows orig undercoating
-paint 20 years - minor wear and nicks but no rust(remember, this is Canada where we hear cars rusting)
-dash good, rip in drivers seat back bolster
-orig suspension, never been touched except for alignment and regular greasing
T roofs, with bags
-well maintained by picky second owner - calls the paint a 6 (says he is too picky)
-rebuilt 4 speed auto
-taking it to his mechanic to check if it can easily be safety checked
-headliner, door and roof seals new, no engine leaks
recent rad and carb and alternator
Having a good body and chassis is most important to me. Suspension, tires and exhaust are just details.
Price good or....?
Haven't seen it in person but I'm thinking of $6500 - taking off $1000 for suspension bushings, tires maybe
86 Monte Carlo ss, Burgundy
-90K miles
manual windows
-no mods
=no winters - chassis shows orig undercoating
-paint 20 years - minor wear and nicks but no rust(remember, this is Canada where we hear cars rusting)
-dash good, rip in drivers seat back bolster
-orig suspension, never been touched except for alignment and regular greasing
T roofs, with bags
-well maintained by picky second owner - calls the paint a 6 (says he is too picky)
-rebuilt 4 speed auto
-taking it to his mechanic to check if it can easily be safety checked
-headliner, door and roof seals new, no engine leaks
recent rad and carb and alternator
Having a good body and chassis is most important to me. Suspension, tires and exhaust are just details.
Price good or....?
Question #2
I feel I'm not good at price negotiations. Quite often I've paid the asking price for items because i could afford to and I wanted the them.
Now, this Monte Carlo has been advertised for at least 6 weeks, the owner is retired and will not have time to drive it. It seems to be priced in the mid level of what is available. What would be the best tactic for getting a better price. Unless there are too many small issues with it this is the SS that meets my criteria. - a good starting point for suspension and minor engine mods keeping it essentially original.(solidifying the ride and making it move out smartly)
I feel I'm not good at price negotiations. Quite often I've paid the asking price for items because i could afford to and I wanted the them.
Now, this Monte Carlo has been advertised for at least 6 weeks, the owner is retired and will not have time to drive it. It seems to be priced in the mid level of what is available. What would be the best tactic for getting a better price. Unless there are too many small issues with it this is the SS that meets my criteria. - a good starting point for suspension and minor engine mods keeping it essentially original.(solidifying the ride and making it move out smartly)
T-top = rust waiting to happen...there's a reason they sell a t-top repair panel.
I am highly skeptical of "no rust" claims, these cars rust from the inside out...and that is as true here in the south/southwest as it is up north. Yours just do it sooner.
Pricewise, about the norm for a decent one, most here are more, many are less, but beaters/modded/hacked.
I am highly skeptical of "no rust" claims, these cars rust from the inside out...and that is as true here in the south/southwest as it is up north. Yours just do it sooner.
Pricewise, about the norm for a decent one, most here are more, many are less, but beaters/modded/hacked.
Sounds like a nice car. The Monte SS's bring more money. It depends on if it is really that nice. If you want to pay less take cash and be willing to leave.
No help on the guide question, wondering if you saw the 86 I posted in your other thread...
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/london/original-owner/1186833109?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
asking price is higher than you indicated on the one you mentioned above but the car has less than 100,000 km (60,000 miles). Appears to be a 1 owner car and looks to be in very nice shape. Food for thought I guess....
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/london/original-owner/1186833109?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
asking price is higher than you indicated on the one you mentioned above but the car has less than 100,000 km (60,000 miles). Appears to be a 1 owner car and looks to be in very nice shape. Food for thought I guess....
Tips on buying a car and getting a great deal.
If you plan on meeting up with seller just let them know you're going to take a LOOK at it.
Don't use an eager tone at all. No oohh or ahhhs. If you show that your too interested theyll sell you the house along with it too.
Look at a few of his other hot rods. Laugh a little and compliment them.
If you plan on towing it. DO NOT show up with a dolly or flatbed. Or at least don't let the seller know that you did.
Don't be afraid to negotiate. Don't spit in their face either, shoot low and meet somewhere in between.
If you plan on meeting up with seller just let them know you're going to take a LOOK at it.
Don't use an eager tone at all. No oohh or ahhhs. If you show that your too interested theyll sell you the house along with it too.
Look at a few of his other hot rods. Laugh a little and compliment them.
If you plan on towing it. DO NOT show up with a dolly or flatbed. Or at least don't let the seller know that you did.
Don't be afraid to negotiate. Don't spit in their face either, shoot low and meet somewhere in between.
I think its always best to bring a second person along to talk each other out of the car. But it also helps if you know the cars and their problem areas to look for 🙂 For me T-Tops, rust, worn interior, or anything in primer are reasons for non-sale. Its just too expensive to fix those areas when balanced against something that looks good. I would rather put $5k into drivetrain than into paint.
You need to know what you want though. The basic v6, manual windows, heat only cars are the least expensive. The vinyl top, bench seat BOP cars tend to get less money than they should even in great condition. The Monte SS, 442 cars can get top buck even in poor condition. GN and Ttype are off on their own pricing scale for some reason.
I disagree with oldsone though. After speaking with the seller I tend to show up with at least $500 as a deposit and a flatbed trailer if possible. I let the seller know I am serious and not some tire kicker. I also make it very clear that there are at least 3 other cars I am looking at within the week and have no problem walking away from a deal. There are loads of cars out there but none are perfect. I set aside $1k per year per vehicle on maintenance. The old monte and my old boat surely eat that money up each year !
Is this the car you are referring to?
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars...lo/1179528076?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
I bet you could get this one for $5500
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars...am/1171096512?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
You need to know what you want though. The basic v6, manual windows, heat only cars are the least expensive. The vinyl top, bench seat BOP cars tend to get less money than they should even in great condition. The Monte SS, 442 cars can get top buck even in poor condition. GN and Ttype are off on their own pricing scale for some reason.
I disagree with oldsone though. After speaking with the seller I tend to show up with at least $500 as a deposit and a flatbed trailer if possible. I let the seller know I am serious and not some tire kicker. I also make it very clear that there are at least 3 other cars I am looking at within the week and have no problem walking away from a deal. There are loads of cars out there but none are perfect. I set aside $1k per year per vehicle on maintenance. The old monte and my old boat surely eat that money up each year !
Is this the car you are referring to?
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars...lo/1179528076?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
I bet you could get this one for $5500
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars...am/1171096512?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
Those both look like nice cars. I think I like the Cutlass a little better but either would be a fun cruiser/project.
- Status
