Next two suspension upgrades

[Oldcoyote]

I have an 88 Cutlass Supreme Classic purchased new, now has 73,000 miles. Southern car, always garaged. Has Olds 403.

F-41 suspension from factory, 1.25 front bar and 3/4 or 7/8 rear bar. Added front poly end link bushings and KYB shocks. Radial T/A 235/60 15.

Would like thoughts on next two suspension/handling upgrades. First upgrade one inch rear anti-sway bar. Hotchkis or Hellwig? Hotchkis mounts to trailing arms and looks easy to install. Hellwig mounts to frame and requires drilling. UMI looks similar to Hotchkis. This bar would be the only upgrade for a while.

Second upgrade 17 inch tires. I like the new Year One SS II but they are VERY new. Would like to see more reviews.

I am very old but still love to run the roads.

Advice will be appreciated.

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

The frame mount rear sway bars are big improvements over the arm mounted rear bars. The rear sway bars that mount to the rear arms cause some binding, its a cost cutting design.

 

[fleming442]

Stiffer springs up front make a huge difference.

 

[spidereyes455]

I would go for stiffer springs and a 36mm front bar from a third gen F body and a rear bar from a late 90's early 2000's s10 blazer. Aftermarket stuff is nice but the correct combo of factory stuff can be just as good and a whole lot cheaper.

 

[scoti]

I would do the wheel/tire upgrade first. Typical 235/60-15" radials are not exactly 'run the road' type of performance oriented. Get some good rubber first. Then see how it drives & decide what needs improvement. Personally, if you already have a rear bar, I would work on improving the non-existent front camber curve & limited caster these things have from the factory (even the F41 equipped cars). Taller BJ's, better arms, or better spindles.

 

[superbon54]

Fix the backwards camber curve with tall BJs before putting on low profile sticky tires. Stiff low profile tires on stock suspension can actually make for a smaller contact patch while cornering.

How to Make Your Musclecar Handle is a great read on the basics.

 

[Oldcoyote]

Stiffer springs up front make a huge difference.

Stiffer than F41?

 

[Oldcoyote]

Fix the backwards camber curve with tall BJs before putting on low profile sticky tires. Stiff low profile tires on stock suspension can actually make for a smaller contact patch while cornering.

How to Make Your Musclecar Handle is a great read on the basics.

I'll read it, thanks

 

[melloelky]

I have an 88 Cutlass Supreme Classic purchased new, now has 73,000 miles. Southern car, always garaged. Has Olds 403.

F-41 suspension from factory, 1.25 front bar and 3/4 or 7/8 rear bar. Added front poly end link bushings and KYB shocks. Radial T/A 235/60 15.

Would like thoughts on next two suspension/handling upgrades. First upgrade one inch rear anti-sway bar. Hotchkis or Hellwig? Hotchkis mounts to trailing arms and looks easy to install. Hellwig mounts to frame and requires drilling. UMI looks similar to Hotchkis. This bar would be the only upgrade for a while.

Second upgrade 17 inch tires. I like the new Year One SS II but they are VERY new. Would like to see more reviews.

I am very old but still love to run the roads.

Advice will be appreciated.

if the rear bar is the only upgrade for a while,keep the bar you have now up front,it's a stout piece and you've already got it.save some money that way.I'm running the rear UMI bar,it's nice.it does require four small holes in the rear cross member.it comes with a template,it's straight forward not very hard to do.sure going from a 15" wheel to the 17" alone would open up a world of tire selections that will allow you to get some better handling from a better tire but if the budget only allows for ONE upgrade look into the rear bar.

 

[fleming442]

Stiffer than F41?

Absolutely! Even the F41s are only rated as 350lbs/in or something ridiculous. Moog 5658-5664s are much stiffer with a shorter installed height. I daily my v6 car on 5662s with drop spindles and want it tighter.