No brake pedal with engine on. Help!

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if you look under the car by the shifter linkage on the driver side.. its on the frame rail. at least it should be.
 
I assumed you had replaced the lines as well....if that car sat in a field for 7 years there must be some rust on the bottom of that car...
 
pontiacgp said:
I assumed you had replaced the lines as well....if that car sat in a field for 7 years there must be some rust on the bottom of that car...

Naw. There's not some rust, there's a LOT of rust.
 
Jack_K said:
pontiacgp said:
I assumed you had replaced the lines as well....if that car sat in a field for 7 years there must be some rust on the bottom of that car...

Naw. There's not some rust, there's a LOT of rust.


I was being polite... :mrgreen:
 
I really appreciate all the suggestions everyone has posted. However, I don't think anyone has explained why I have pedal with the engine off and no pedal at all with the engine running.

Anyone?
 
the pedal with the engine off is hard because of the vacuum brake boost is not getting any vacuum and the pressure you feel is from the brake boost, your trying to compress the air that has no place to go...when you start the engine the vacuum pulls the air from the brake boost allowing the pedal to drop

power-brake3.jpg
 
Jack_K said:
I really appreciate all the suggestions everyone has posted. However, I don't think anyone has explained why I have pedal with the engine off and no pedal at all with the engine running.

Anyone?

What pontiacgp said!

You still have air in the system. How did you bleed the brakes. Did you do them in order from the furthest first? Pass rear, DR rear, Pass front, Dr front? Have you looked for leaks underneath the car and kept the master cylinder topped off?
 
What pontiacgp said!

You still have air in the system. How did you bleed the brakes. Did you do them in order from the furthest first? Pass rear, DR rear, Pass front, Dr front? Have you looked for leaks underneath the car and kept the master cylinder topped off?[/quote]

Yes, I bench bled the master before I installed it.
Before I started I had absolutely no pedal. It would go right to the floor. I was careful not to push it past the point where it would break the seal on the master, though.

I used Sped Bleeders at all 4 wheels. I kept the master cylinder full. I connected a Mighty Vac to the RR, pumped up a vacuum, opened the bleeder, and bled it that way. As the small container on the Vac filled, I released the vacuum, emptied the catch bottle, and topped off the master. When I stopped getting bubbles I tightened the bleeder. Then I repeated the same process on the LR, RF, and LF in that order.

After that I had moderate pedal pressure and it would go about half way to the floor. As soon as I start the engine I have absolutely no pedal pressure at all. Turn the engine off and I immediately have pedal half way to the floor.
 
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