noisy sbc

[565bbchevy]

So based on the instructions it is like I said that it would bottom out on the cam, so my guess at what happened originally is it bottomed out on the cam locking plate and at some point worked its way past the locking plate which gave you clearance equal to the thickness of your cam sprocket.
The Cloyes picture doesn't show the locking plate so they probably just Loctite them.
I myself prefer the locking plates and would just modify it to work.

 

[crotchss]

So after reading the instruction link it appears there is a way to lengthen the button depth correct? If this is correct I would bore out the center of the plate and adjust it to bottom out on the cam then tighten locking screw and I would think you would be set. Then check to be sure, then clean and reassemble, replacing whatever parts you need to.

 

[565bbchevy]

I'm still surprised they would base their clearance only on the expansion rate of aluminum.
I guess that's why most of us just use the cam button on the cam method.

 

[mebe007]

I'll have to see which model clevite 77 bearings I have. I was wondering which of there's were best for my setup. What about oil pumps any recommendations here? All in all I'm feeling much better now. So you think keep the rings I have? Just stagger gaps like normal?

 

[84cutspreme]

Hey quick 2 questions...
1) Was the block ever clearenced for timing chain? Mine required me to machine down a little bit around camshaft bore, like by galley plugs. I believe for torrington bearing.
2) My cam thrust button got installed under my cam lock plate, yours being on the cover I am not sure I understand

Video of cam button & lock plate installation:
https://video.search.yahoo.com/play...c=0&sigr=11a1trape&sigt=11tlvclqk&age=0&&tt=b

 

[565bbchevy]

This video set up does not apply since on the Cloyes timing cover the cam button is mounted to a removable plate that mounts to the timing cover.

 

[455'ed80Regal]

Not to hijack this thread, but I have a question. In a sbc or bbc that still incorporates a distributor, when the engine is running, which way does the cam tend to move, towards the front or back of the block? Assuming it has an internal oil pump of course.

 

[Fox80]

I think 565 is correct, from the look of it they didn't design the button for use with a lock plate. But like he stated I would open up the hole and use it, they are a good idea. The bearings, block, and pistons all look fine. This is a tough call I myself would change all the bearings and re-spec everything, BUT if you do not have the tools to check clearances I would just clean everything and reinstall them. If you happen to mess up the clearances in a the motor you will have way bigger problems than a little scratch on a bearing or piston. To the above post the natural design of the cam walks it forward in the block, that is why when you install a roller and do not want the movement you put a bearing behind the cam gear because the button will make it contact the block and it is not designed to do that. Not to bust the original posters balls but after seeing all this I say using a Torrington bearing behind the gear with a button under the cam plate and the bolt under the water pump to hold the stamped cover for the proper end play is still the better method. Sometimes trying to reinvent the wheel isn't necessary.

 

[mebe007]

im going to be installing new bearings and checking clearances. this inst my first motor but the first in a long time. i ask questions to be on the safe side. understanding my limitations is key here. as we have discovered the issue was the cam lock plate. nothing a die grinder wont fix when it all goes back together. im also going to run a melling select pump this time around.

 

[455'ed80Regal]

To the above post the natural design of the cam walks it forward in the block, that is why when you install a roller and do not want the movement you put a bearing behind the cam gear because the button will make it contact the block and it is not designed to do that. Not to bust the original posters balls but after seeing all this I say using a Torrington bearing behind the gear with a button under the cam plate and the bolt under the water pump to hold the stamped cover for the proper end play is still the better method. Sometimes trying to reinvent the wheel isn't necessary.

If a cam naturally wants to walk forward in a block then why no cam retaining plates on flat tappet blocks?