noisy sbc

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After going back and looking at your pics I can tell you what is happening. The cam button outer diameter is just small enough to slip down past the lock plate and down the center of the cam gear and causing excessive cam play. So in turn the cam is walking forward and the bolt heads are the furthest out piece, thus contacting the cover. Is there a way to remove the button from the cover and use one that would fit behind the lock plate? Either that or something needs to be placed down in the cam gear center to take up the play. When I set up roller cams I try to get cam play to nearly no movement, like .005 - .010 clearance.
 
Well like suggested I think I need to open up the lock plate center hole so button rides in hole in can year. Setup staticly the button hits lock plate but when running its able to slip past lock plate. So what is thought to be correct endplay wasn't at all
 
mebe007 said:
Yes the can sprocket has the roller bearing built into the back. Not sure of forward movement of can but was surely enough. You think I should leave the can bearings alone? Just replace the mains and rods? How do I determine ring condition? Could the oil have been from excessive pressure and not enough run time yo seat them? Also standard volume or high volume oil pump? Which bearings would be recommended?

From your pictures as far as I can tell the cam bearings look fine and I would leave them.
How long was the engine ran in total time and how long making all the noise?
I would replace your parts with identical ones.
Did you actually have a blowby issue or are you basing this on your tear down findings?
 
Do you have a way to measure movement, like a magnetic dial gauge? If not before assembling the entire engine put the cam, cam gear, cover, etc. all back on to mock up. Now on the inside of the cover where the button is put a wad of clay on the end and put it on. Then get a screw driver and down through the lifter valley pry the cam all the way back then forward by catching the sides of a cam lobe. Then remove the cover and measure the clay thickness, shim accordingly to get correct end play.
 
Engine fired first time last year or so. Been sitting for a year or so. Total runtime maybe 1-1.5 hours. Started it a couple months ago heard a messy sound. Thought I hadn't bled power steering right. Replaced pump started heard noise. Thought water pump then removed belts and here we are.
 
No I don't have a magnetic dial indicator. Clues suggests with there cover and button to set at zero and the expansion rate of aluminum vs steel makes things right. That's what instructions say at least
 
mebe007 said:
Well like suggested I think I need to open up the lock plate center hole so button rides in hole in can year. Setup staticly the button hits lock plate but when running its able to slip past lock plate. So what is thought to be correct endplay wasn't at all

Never using a Cloyes timing cover I have to imagine they would have designed it with a cam button that is long enough to reach the cam nose itself since they would have no way of knowing what brand of timing chain or gear drive you are using.
You would have to bottom it out on the cam to get zero and back it out to get your clearance.
Do you have the instructions that should have come with the cover? If you do post them.
Because of the button being in the cover I think this is set up opposite of a normal roller cam set up but should still end up with the same results if done right.
 
Yep I'm guessing the button is contacting the edge of the lock plate, giving a false reading, then when running it "slips" its way down into the center. Could bore out center of plate or get rid of it all together and just use red locktite. I just can't believe the button would need to be shimmed that much, if it is catching the edge of the lock plate and giving the right clearance reading. Dropping down into the center is around .125-.250 of difference, depending on gear thickness.
 
That's all I can think. The cloyes gear does look deep
IMG_20140110_170049_393_zpsed5612b1.jpg
 
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