not running like expected at the drag strip

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Definitely not a fuel issue, I am using a pump I got from a friend (Carter mechanical) that was on his Camaro with a healthy 383 that runs low 12s on motor and mid to low 11s with nitrous. He wanted to take the engine further and went electric.

I did however find my issue, or most of it anyways... mechanical advance on the distributor locked at 28 degrees will basically screw everything up lol. Swapped in another distributor and it runs MUCH better now, timing all in set at 36 degrees right now.
 
Little update here....

The car was running amazing for about a week, I was able to break traction from a 15 MPH roll (never did that before) I was very anxious to get it back to the drag strip to see what it would run! Well, that extra power lasted about a week until it caused another issue... I destroyed the ring and pinion again last weekend!!! All apart now, hoping to have it back together later this week.
 
even though you seem to have found the problem, i figure i should throw this out there for future use. never assume anything! everyone went through the build as a problem and never considered mech failure. a loss of power at higher RPMs is usually fuel delivery or timing. just because you have a good fuel pump doesn't mean there's enough fuel at the carb. it could have been an old fuel filter that's restricted, but not clogged. or a distributor with a small vac leak or dirt bound mech advance, or god only knows what else.
 
larryo454 said:
Hi get a converter it is killing your 60ft big time and timing all in at 31 not a big help.

If he is using the tires and rims, as described, I would be very surpirsed if he wasn't getting a lot of wheelspin at the bottom end, and a higher stall would make that worse.

Your tires are the right diameter (26") for your gear ratio (3.73), but you want a lot more contact patch.

I run 28"x 10'5" drag slicks, with trackbite, and 14psi to get 1.8sec 60ft times. (I know, I am changing to 26" for next year)

The high mph to ET ratio suggests not enough gear, but this shouldn't be, so I woul look at the launch very carefully.

As for the holley, you need to check and change the jets, for your application, and check the power valves to make sure they are set for the amount of vacuum your cam can produce. You can adjust the accelerator pump actuator to give you different 'shots' as well.

The secondarys are actuated by a spring in the vacuum pot on the pasenger side. Be VERY careful opening it as you can tear the diaphragm very easily. Lighter springs open sooner. You have to experiment to get it to work for you.
 
RITTER said:
Its the LS power band in the G8 GT that pulls so hard.

A higher stall speed converter would help you, tremendously :idea:


what he said
 
More timing with aluminum heads and check your carb for jetting. Get a plug reading after a full throttle run and shut off and go from there. I have almost your identical motor.
361 (.060 350) comp 280h
Patriot Vortec heads 185cc
Full roller rockers and demon 650 vac carb. It runs really strong in my truck. Haven't had it to the track yet but sounds like something is off on your combo!!
Also you need a 2500-2800 stall... Trust me you won't regret it.
 
Been a while since I have been around, been pretty busy lately...

Anyways, I don't get any wheel spin off the line at all, or at least I wasn't with the distributor screwed up. I am sure that now once I get everything all set again I will have that issue though.

I am running the stock 7.5" 10 bolt still so stickier tires and a stall would make me pretty nervous. I do want a stall convertor though, maybe sometime... money isn't there right now 🙁

I still have some learning to do with carbs, but I have done a bit of research over the years and have an OK understanding as to what goes on, I will throw a vacuum gauge on it this spring and see what kind of readings I get out of it then get a power valve based on that reading.

I am confident that I have at least a mid if not low 13 second car here, just have to figure out the combination to get there 8)
 
Is there any suspension work done on your car? If the sway bar up front is able to come off remove it and the links and see what you 60'.
 
No suspension mods at all, unless you consider fried control arm bushings mods :lol:

I do have the front sway bar still, but I have no desire to remove it for any reason, not even to better my track times.
 
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