not running like expected at the drag strip

[crash]

It revs past 4,000 RPM no problem, I usually shift it at 6,000 RPM when at the track or playing around (B&M shifter) I do know for sure a stall would help greatly, but then as was said, would create traction issues and I would want to run slicks to really take advantage of it. I still have the stock 7.5" though and I don't want to push my luck with it using slicksso the street tires would stay for now.

I think I am going to double check my timing and throw a couple more degrees in this weekend and see what happens.

 

[GhettoRacingKid]

When are you going back to the track?

try having the air cleaner off

if you want you can increase the cam lift by investing in a set of 1.6 rockers

I upgraded my rear suspension and the difference is crazy. I got a set of UMIs upper and lower with energy bushings. they go on sale every once in a while.

 

[crash]

Not sure when the next track day will be, hopefully soon, but if not we are going for another visit for sure in October.

I was actually going to make a run with the air filter off, but I completely forgot It is a 3" K&N filter 14" diameter, flat base.

The valve springs on my heads are only rated to .480" lift which is why I went with the cam I have. However, I also have acquired a bigger cam that may or may not go in... The new cam I picked up is .500" lift [email protected]" duration, it requires 10.5:1 compression and a 3,500 stall though and I am only running 9.5:1 with a stock stall. To use that cam I would probably need to throw in a new set of pistons and I am sure that the stock rods would be at or near their limit as far as what they can handle and I really don't feel like throwing a rod so I would need new rods as well. With everything else going on right now I am not sure when I would have the money for new rods, pistons, and a stall converter 🙁

The rear bushings are absolutely fried and are definitely on the list to be replaced soon, I would also like some new control arms as well, but we will see what happens.

 

[Pontiac455]

Best thing u can do is install an electric fuel pump. THe stock mechanical pump floats a 4000 rpm. It may not feel like it needs more fuel but it does at n e thing ovr 4000. Grab a Holley blue pump and regulator set yer pressure at 8 to 10 psi at idle. Another thing is set yer timing is at 35 degrees at 3000 rpm and thats total. Check it and make sure it doesn't go past 35 degrees when u rev past 3000 rpm. Also u can set up a RAM AIR by using dryer duct work and takin out the headlight.

 

[pontiacgp]

:|

 

[GhettoRacingKid]

Not sure when the next track day will be, hopefully soon, but if not we are going for another visit for sure in October.

I was actually going to make a run with the air filter off, but I completely forgot It is a 3" K&N filter 14" diameter, flat base.

The valve springs on my heads are only rated to .480" lift which is why I went with the cam I have. However, I also have acquired a bigger cam that may or may not go in... The new cam I picked up is .500" lift [email protected]" duration, it requires 10.5:1 compression and a 3,500 stall though and I am only running 9.5:1 with a stock stall. To use that cam I would probably need to throw in a new set of pistons and I am sure that the stock rods would be at or near their limit as far as what they can handle and I really don't feel like throwing a rod so I would need new rods as well. With everything else going on right now I am not sure when I would have the money for new rods, pistons, and a stall converter 🙁

The rear bushings are absolutely fried and are definitely on the list to be replaced soon, I would also like some new control arms as well, but we will see what happens.

what CC heads are you running? sorry if you had said it before.

I always said. on a budget build motor... who cares if you blow it up.

 

[dogsht]

I had a 200-4r converter rebuilt to a 3,000 stall lock up for $300. With lock up your mileage is the same, it don't heat up your trans from sliping & you basically don't know you have a high stall until you whack the throttle & bust out off the line like she is a different car.

 

[GhettoRacingKid]

ahhh stick with the heads you are running. you can always upgrade the springs but im sure they can handle .500.

a bigger lift cam willnt fix your problem. you need that converter. I would pick up a B&M torq master. they are cheap enough and work well for what you are running now.

a cam needs duration too. not just lift. even though lift helps.

go with a converter and the fuel pump should make a difference too.

 

[Chris Van]

Could very well be a fuel issue too. Not sure what kind of pump you are running but I know a good aftermarket high volume mechanical pump will be good for the E.T.'s you are shooting for.
Here is a good summit brand that is fairly cheap and would deliver plenty of fuel for your application. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-250020-1/
That is, if you are not interested in installing an electric pump at the time.
Some of the other ugrades that have been mentioned such as rear suspension mods and 1.6 rocker arms are all excellent ideas and some even become necessary as your et's become faster BUT are not gonna pick your car up from a 13.77 to a 13.0 by any means. The stock rear suspension will handle mid 13 second passes for years to come. But atleast go with some urethane bushings.

 

[GhettoRacingKid]

I think thats actually the fuel pump i have now. Ill have to check my receipts.

it works good. my heads are my issue currently but thats a different topic