Oil Recommendations

[jae]

Not sure if this is the right place to ask or if this has been asked before, but was wondering if anyone has recommendations / advice on motor oil. As many know I'm running a '70 350 Olds (with '72 #7a heads), that's built up a little and was wondering about the newer oils not running the same amount of ZDDP, if this would be a problem in the long run and if there was an oil that still has the previous amount of ZDDP.

So basically am asking if anyone here have any comments on what may be a good oil to use, pros / cons. I used to run Mobil in my previous two Olds, '66 Impala & truck and they seemed to run very good, with any bearing, cam/lifter failures, but have a little more invested in this one, so kind of want to protect the investment. I've heard Valvoline is a good street oil but honestly never used it. Since the car is mostly street driven (not raced) now (with a rare run down the strip), was basing oil selection on conventional, not synthetic.

Or am I reading too much into the reduction of the ZDDP?

Thanks.

 

[pontiacgp]

I run Amsoil...and you'll notice how much quicker the engine revs using synthetic..

AMSOIL AMO, ARO, HDD, TRO, and AHR all contain high levels of zinc/phosphorus maximizing flat tappet/camshaft life in stock and modified applications.
AMSOIL 10W-40 (AMO) and 20W-50 (ARO) are premium synthetic formulations which are recommended for API SL (gasoline)/CI-4 Plus (heavy-duty, on-road diesel) specified applications. They are an outstanding choice where high zinc containing protection is required in late model hot rods requiring extra camshaft protection.
AMSOIL (HDD) is a 5W-30 weight combination diesel/gasoline oil with a higher starting TBN to handle the signifi-cant stresses from high soot loading and acid generation in modern diesel engines. HDD contains the high phosphorus and zinc required for long life.

 

[shotgun]

Wifes new mini-van gets Mobil 1 5/30 , post Zinc designed engine.

Drivers get NAPA , "not legal for highway oil" 10/30 , has zinc package.
A yeah, it's for my tractor, why?

Race cars gets Brad Penn 10/40 or 20/50, good stuff plus it's kinda cool running green oil!

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

My truck (with 305k on it) has run Mobil 1 for most of it's existence, but as for my Cutlass with a flat tappet cam, I run Shell Rotella T as it still has some ZDDP in it from what I have read.

 

[shotgun]

The Rotella deal ended at the beginning of the year ( I think).

If you still find a bottle with the old label, it should be ok.

The trick was to use diesel oil, put they pulled that also, just took longer.

 

[jae]

I run Amsoil...and you'll notice how much quicker the engine revs using synthetic..

So which weight do you run, 10W40? Do you order / purchase this online or parts store? Are the change intervals the same as say, a Valvoline, Quaker State or extended?

 

[jae]

My truck (with 305k on it) has run Mobil 1 for most of it's existence, but as for my Cutlass with a flat tappet cam, I run Shell Rotella T as it still has some ZDDP in it from what I have read.

I thought about picking that up too a while back, remembering that it still contained the ZDDP but was unsure about it since it was for diesel engines (we kept this oil around in the shop for our delivery trucks). Was in Menards the other week and went down the aisle and looked at the label and it must've been the new as it didn't mention containing ZDDP. We have a Farm & Fleet by me as well so I can check there.

I would rather use an oil that gives the best protection for the short-block components and durability / long life than just tick some cheap stuff in it, you know.

Thanks for the info.

 

[dogsht]

fwiw when you change over a well used engine to synthetic often you end up with oil leaks.

Shotgun, The Brand Penn stuff is the top shelf. Good info on the NAPA "not legal for highway oil" Is it reasonably priced?

Valvoline VR1 "raceing" oil also has the zinc pack but may not have any detergents so it may need changed more often. I don't know yet have been useing old stock of Rotella. I see the VR1 vary from 3.99 to 4.99 a quart about as expensive as a synthetic. Some places have the additive but after you add that to your oil costs you end up with more than buying the VR1. I am going to check out the not legal for highway tractor oils.

 

[megaladon6]

the old thing about synthetic causing leaks isn't really true anymore. if the rings are pretty worn you might get some more burnt oil as the synthetic sticks to the walls better, but that's about it.
the VR-1 oil is just like regular oil in detergents and such, it just can't be sold for regular use due to the ZDDP content.
as for amsoil, i know a number of people who like it and have had no problems....but, i know alot more people that have problems. plus one of the engineers i work with, who is an oil/lubrication specialist, says that it's pretty much crap. he said that mobil 1 is the pretty much the best stuff you can get, but since they don't make a high ZDDP oil, valvoline is a very good substitute.
one that i haven't checked the ZDDP levels on is valvolines Q synthetic oil, it might be good.

 

[dan2286]

What is zddp content? What does having a flat tappet cam have to do with the type of oil you use?