Oil Separator/ Catch Can

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on the GM crate 602 and 604 race engines we had they came with 2 breathers on the driver's side valve cover and nothing on the passenger side. The engines were chipped at 6200 rpm and after 100 lap race there wasn't much oil leaking past the breahers. We had more issues sealing the breather to the cover.
 
The catch can on the dirty side should never be allowed to drain back to the crankcase. A lot of moisture can build up in the can and you don't want that in your crankcase.

They do have clean side catch can setups (i.e., the Camaro 1LE setup) that basically collected any oil that may have tried to blow back into the intake tube and catch it before it got back up into the intake (basically backflowing where it shouldn't). But that's only half the potential issue. In fact, unless you're pushing it a lot, you probably won't get much if anything in the tubing attached at the air inlet even without the clean side.

Recall, the LS series of engines were certified without catch cans of any kind, so it's totally up to you if you wish to run one. I do because it's not going to hurt, and it may be beneficial. I believe it is keeping more oil out of the intake system. Who wants that? The gunk you get out of your can when you clean it is gunk that would end up in the air intake side of your engine. If you're getting excessive blowby into the intake oiling up the air plenum, it's not a major deal if a little does depending on your fuel system. DI engines likely benefit further from the catch can on the dirty side than the intake injection above the valves. DI engines have nothing to backwash the valves, so periodic cleaning of the back sides of the intake valves will be in your future if you have a lot of oil sneaking into your intake system with the newer DI engines.

Remember too, even our stock "dinosaur" engines use a PCV that gets sucked into the intake side. A catch can can be used there too, IMO, is always beneficial and won't hurt a thing, unless you're needing to be factory stock. Any oil that gets sucked into the intake will come out the exhaust or will be stuck on the back side of the valves. You can minimize it or not. Your call.

When using a catch can, checking it often and emptying it before it gets full, is key. With a catch can, comes great responsibility. 🙂
 
The catch can on the dirty side should never be allowed to drain back to the crankcase. A lot of moisture can build up in the can and you don't want that in your crankcase.

They do have clean side catch can setups (i.e., the Camaro 1LE setup) that basically collected any oil that may have tried to blow back into the intake tube and catch it before it got back up into the intake (basically backflowing where it shouldn't). But that's only half the potential issue. In fact, unless you're pushing it a lot, you probably won't get much if anything in the tubing attached at the air inlet even without the clean side.

Recall, the LS series of engines were certified without catch cans of any kind, so it's totally up to you if you wish to run one. I do because it's not going to hurt, and it may be beneficial. I believe it is keeping more oil out of the intake system. Who wants that? The gunk you get out of your can when you clean it is gunk that would end up in the air intake side of your engine. If you're getting excessive blowby into the intake oiling up the air plenum, it's not a major deal if a little does depending on your fuel system. DI engines likely benefit further from the catch can on the dirty side than the intake injection above the valves. DI engines have nothing to backwash the valves, so periodic cleaning of the back sides of the intake valves will be in your future if you have a lot of oil sneaking into your intake system with the newer DI engines.

Remember too, even our stock "dinosaur" engines use a PCV that gets sucked into the intake side. A catch can can be used there too, IMO, is always beneficial and won't hurt a thing, unless you're needing to be factory stock. Any oil that gets sucked into the intake will come out the exhaust or will be stuck on the back side of the valves. You can minimize it or not. Your call.

When using a catch can, checking it often and emptying it before it gets full, is key. With a catch can, comes great responsibility. 🙂

also any oil that gets sucked into the intake can end up shortening the life of the catalytic convertor and restrict the flow before the convertor dies....it can also damage the O2 sensor(s)... :popcorn:
 
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Don't know if any of you have seen these pics i have posted here before. This is what I took out of my catch can setup i had on a 5.3 awhile back. This was collected after a few thousand miles. You can see how it separated after a few days but what shocked me was what it did to the little chemical container I had it in after 3 or 4 days
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Although I've done much water and chemical testing at my job, I am not a chemist. But if I had to guess I would say water from combustion is mostly on the bottom and mostly oil at the top.
 
How much oil is "normal" for an oil separator to collect?

Are we talking about 1 tablespoon every 100 miles? More or less?
 
On my tired 305 I threw a cheap air compressor oil separator in line after the pic to control the blow by. Seems to be working. Once I do valve seals I’ll be 100% smoke free.
When I rebuild the 350 I have on the stand I plan on going with something a bit more aesthetically pleasing.
 
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This is starting to sound like a Red Green episode...... :popcorn:

I agree. Terrifying and dramatic pictures of oil/water/contamination separation.............
it is happening 100% of the time in an internal combustion engine and you either..........

hell, what’s the point of continuing? :popcorn::popcorn:
 
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